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Consumer units and equipment outdoors

Hi,

Anything inherently wrong with installing consumer units outside? 

IP rated (IP65/66).

The plan is to install henley blocks into the exterior meter cupboard, and a supply taken to an IP rated lockable enclosure on the wall directly below the cupboard to supply an outbuilding.  

How does the sway in temperature impact MCB and RCD functionality? They all seem to be rated to sub zero temperatures and in excess of 40 degrees. 

Anyone with any extensive experience doing this? 
 

Thanks. 

  • What do you mean by “outside”?

    I am not necessarily a fan of BG, but they make a “garage” CU which is built like a brick dunny. Even the screws which secure it to the wall are protected by rubber plugs.

    Notwithstanding any manufacturer's IP rating, I wouldn't be happy with one which was completely exposed to the elements, but under an awning or deep soffits is, I think, acceptable.

    If a CU is in a suitable IP enclosure, how does that differ from a construction site set up?

  • really outside units, like you bump into at pop festivals, use ordinary RCDs, MCBs and RCBOs inside.

    But really they are a cupboard on stilts.  metal or plastic/rubber

     

     

  • i have seen them “outside” i.e. in a small flimsy housing , not really weatherproof and not affording any operation of RCDs/MCBs in an enviroment where the operator will always be pretty  dry. Open the CU for servicing only in guaranteed good weather. Not something i would encourage. A meter, cutout and maybe mainswitch in an external box is just about within the realms of normal in my opinion

  • Within a few miles of the coast, consider protection against corrosion if outdoors. Many basic steel or cast alloy consumer units would be subject to being compromised after a very short time (2-3 years in some cases). The nearer the sea, the worse the salt concentration gets, although its effects can (dependent on terrain) be seen over 10 miles inland.

    In sectional concrete garages and some sheds, it can also be a problem too as they are not fully weather sealed - so for example, if you are within a mile of the coast, you might experience problems with metalclad accessories and standard-duty galvanized containment in a sectional concrete garage, depending on how exposed and subject to wind the outbuilding is.

  • Always make a small drain hole at the lowest point. It allows natural aspiration and prevents condensation buildup. I try to use the bottom entry knockouts only. This is Chris's suggestion….

     

    BG Metal Garage Consumer Unit IP65 2 Way (toolstation.com)

    Z.

  • Zoomup: 
     

    Always make a small drain hole at the lowest point. It allows natural aspiration and prevents condensation buildup. I try to use the bottom entry knockouts only. This is Chris's suggestion….

     

    BG Metal Garage Consumer Unit IP65 2 Way (toolstation.com)

    Z.

    I was really referring to a plastic consumer unit like the attached.

    As this will go on an outside wall, under tbe meter/DNO box, I don’t think there is a requirement for it to be made of metal. 

    It can’t go inside of the DNO enclosure, so under it on the outside wall itself seems like a logical solution? 

    https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1925117-8-way-insulated-ip55-enclosure?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1dGJBhD4ARIsANb6Odm7A6ezBXk7qSsidc1Ix3AtG4tMdfIrv4pYev1q9tjEqlvrO6djd_8aAjPwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

  • Chris Pearson: 
     

    What do you mean by “outside”?

    I am not necessarily a fan of BG, but they make a “garage” CU which is built like a brick dunny. Even the screws which secure it to the wall are protected by rubber plugs.

    Notwithstanding any manufacturer's IP rating, I wouldn't be happy with one which was completely exposed to the elements, but under an awning or deep soffits is, I think, acceptable.

    If a CU is in a suitable IP enclosure, how does that differ from a construction site set up?

    Customer has their main fuse and meter in a DNO cupboard that is sunk into an external wall. 
     

    The new setup can’t go inside for obvious reasons, but a plastic IP CU on the wall, under this DNO cupboard, I think will be ok? 

    Like this found on Google: 
     

    223d2786049b472886c5c9e822a33404-original-9ddd010c-e9e9-4981-af22-cb9f5f123af9.jpg

    https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1925117-8-way-insulated-ip55-enclosure?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1dGJBhD4ARIsANb6Odm7A6ezBXk7qSsidc1Ix3AtG4tMdfIrv4pYev1q9tjEqlvrO6djd_8aAjPwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

  • ebee: 
     

    ..Open the CU for servicing only in guaranteed good weather. Not something i would encourage. ..

    Have to agree with this. Having to reset RCD or OCPD in the rain/wind/snow/dark is not a good idea. As is having the “close” protection remote from the outbuilding. 

    A few questions;

    How many final circuits are envisaged? What would be their route, distance to outbuilding and installation method? Would the DNO allow henley blocks in “their” cabinet? What sort of outbuilding? Any services there that might need bonding? 

    Assuming the existing CU for the property is within 3m, why not take henley blocks from that location?

    Just trying to get a fuller picture of the installation

  • Zoomup: 
     

    Always make a small drain hole at the lowest point. It allows natural aspiration and prevents condensation buildup. I try to use the bottom entry knockouts only. This is Chris's suggestion….

     

    BG Metal Garage Consumer Unit IP65 2 Way (toolstation.com)

    Z.

    Zoomup,

    If you drill any kind of hole in a IP rated enclosure even as you say to deal with condensation you will have compromised the manufacturers IP Assurance! Yes the manufacturer may have 20 or 25mm knockouts/entries but its then the responsibility of the installer to ensure glands/cable entries equal the IP rating of the enclosure. If there are 20mm knockouts I would suggest you obtain and fit a purpose made 20mm condenstation plug that are readily availible.

    I think condensation would be a item that needs worthy consideration, with certain times of year, humid air and diffrence in temps, water gathering on the protective devices wont be great in the long run, also as others have said, in a winters storm at night, I wouldnt like to be outside fault finding if I could help it.

     

    GTB

  • GTB: 
     

    Zoomup: 
     

    Always make a small drain hole at the lowest point. It allows natural aspiration and prevents condensation buildup. I try to use the bottom entry knockouts only. This is Chris's suggestion….

     

    BG Metal Garage Consumer Unit IP65 2 Way (toolstation.com)

    Z.

    Zoomup,

    If you drill any kind of hole in a IP rated enclosure even as you say to deal with condensation you will have compromised the manufacturers IP Assurance! Yes the manufacturer may have 20 or 25mm knockouts/entries but its then the responsibility of the installer to ensure glands/cable entries equal the IP rating of the enclosure. If there are 20mm knockouts I would suggest you obtain and fit a purpose made 20mm condenstation plug that are readily availible.

    I think condensation would be a item that needs worthy consideration, with certain times of year, humid air and diffrence in temps, water gathering on the protective devices wont be great in the long run, also as others have said, in a winters storm at night, I wouldnt like to be outside fault finding if I could help it.

     

    GTB

    Most outdoor wiring accessories like these below, have drain provisions where a drain hole is made by the installer. The back box has an indirect exit for water moulded into the back box at the lowest points, and is marked as such. I always drill a hole or two at these positions.

    522.3.2

    Z.