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Exterior wiring underground and under render to wall lights

Semi detached, garden wall at right angles to the rear of the house. Wall is in poor condition due to weathering. I want to install wall lights and then render. Advice required on best way to get power to the lights without visible boxes etc. 

I'll get an electrician to install and certify, but can do the prep work myself. My current thinking is:

Dual wall ducting 500mm beneath flagged patio, with warning tape then through house wall below suspended wooden floor. 1mm SWA converted to 1mm T&E in a metal box screwed to the house wall beneath wooden floor, fed from a switched fused connection unit above floor level. SFCU either on the ground floor ring final or from a radial to an existing 20A MCB (for outside socket) in an RCD protected split load consumer unit. Or a separate RCBO. 2x 1mm SWA underground, then through PVC conduit chased into the wall up to PVC BESA boxes chased into the wall for the wall lights.

Is it ok to leave the SWA sheath un-terminated at the wall light?

Looking for best practice solutions for discussion with my electrician.

Thanks in advance.

Parents
  • Is it ok to leave the SWA sheath un-terminated at the wall light?

    Not ideal. You'll need an earth at the light (even if you happen to install double insulated lights now, regs still require an earth be present in case they're replaced later on) - while you could achieve that by using 3-core rather than 2-core SWA cable and re-purposing one of the cores as a c.p.c., you'd likely still be reliant on the armour being properly earthed (at least in the underground sections) - so you'd need a way to prove that during inspection & test - which means needing a connection at the light end to test it - especially if there's an underground joint.

    You could gland the SWA into galvanised steel conduit (BESA) boxes, set flush with the render - not entirely ideal as the glad then becomes inaccessible (but no more so than a joint in steel conduit in the same situation, which is usually deemed acceptable). You'd also need reasonably deep render (or start cutting into the brickwork).

    Depending on the exact situation, I might look for some unobtrusive corner where the SWA could come out of the ground, glanded into a surface IP box, then concealed cables run from there to the lights (in normal "safe zones") - that could be almost anything - even T&E with capping over should do - or something in PVC conduit if render depth allows - and then termination into individual lights should be a lot easier.

      - Andy.

Reply
  • Is it ok to leave the SWA sheath un-terminated at the wall light?

    Not ideal. You'll need an earth at the light (even if you happen to install double insulated lights now, regs still require an earth be present in case they're replaced later on) - while you could achieve that by using 3-core rather than 2-core SWA cable and re-purposing one of the cores as a c.p.c., you'd likely still be reliant on the armour being properly earthed (at least in the underground sections) - so you'd need a way to prove that during inspection & test - which means needing a connection at the light end to test it - especially if there's an underground joint.

    You could gland the SWA into galvanised steel conduit (BESA) boxes, set flush with the render - not entirely ideal as the glad then becomes inaccessible (but no more so than a joint in steel conduit in the same situation, which is usually deemed acceptable). You'd also need reasonably deep render (or start cutting into the brickwork).

    Depending on the exact situation, I might look for some unobtrusive corner where the SWA could come out of the ground, glanded into a surface IP box, then concealed cables run from there to the lights (in normal "safe zones") - that could be almost anything - even T&E with capping over should do - or something in PVC conduit if render depth allows - and then termination into individual lights should be a lot easier.

      - Andy.

Children
  • Why can you not bury NYY in the wall cement courses rather than use SWA? You can stick with SWA underground, but convert to NYY for the final runs to the lights.

  • I don't want any visible cables or boxes so NYY to SWA would either be in a Wiska box on the wall or a resin filled joint underground. But is NYY allowed underground, even a short distance? To allow for cable replacement I don't want to fit the cable directly in the wall, so need PVC or steel conduit. I could use steel conduit, but then would need to earth it underground which I don't think is acceptable. Could use steel all the way I suppose!