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Thoughts on replacing switched fuse with small consumer unit

Alan B

I need to take a garage feed from the meter box in the picture below to enable installation of an EV charger. as consume unit is in the middle of the house and far from easy to get a cable in to it.

My initial plan has been to use an external IP rated consumer unit connected by henley blocks to the output of the main isolator.

Then I have been thinking that looking at the real estate taken by the current switched fuse (protecting cable run through house) and the Henley block I need it's basically the same size as a small garage consumer unit, probably more untidy. 

I know the DNO's frown on consumer units in the meter cupboard but given the switched fuse and henley blocks would have to be there anyway and I think there is a reasonable argument for a small consumer unit being a neater and in some ways more space efficient solution.

I would mount the new CU on spacers so that the meter tails could run underneath to the isolator above and maybe move the isolator up a bit, SWA garage feed would come up from the bottom.

The alternative would be to move the isolator up, squeeze a Henley block between it and the switched fuse.

Does this sound like  reasonable engineering judgement, anything I am missing?

Thanks

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    Or loads of spray foam at the shallow end of the quality control - I'm pretty sure that there are suppose to be cavity stops at windows and doors too, but a very large fraction seem to be just stuck in until it oozes like tooth paste and then trimmed flush.  In many ways the easy but slightly cop-out solution is to find someone who does brickwork for a living to make the aperture for you, as the job then reduces to the use of two pens - a large marker pen to show where you want the hole, and a second smaller one to sign the cheque. Nowadays the second pen can be replaced by BACS....

    A similar thought occurs when you are too old to dig trenches for SWA any more.

    Mike

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    Or loads of spray foam at the shallow end of the quality control - I'm pretty sure that there are suppose to be cavity stops at windows and doors too, but a very large fraction seem to be just stuck in until it oozes like tooth paste and then trimmed flush.  In many ways the easy but slightly cop-out solution is to find someone who does brickwork for a living to make the aperture for you, as the job then reduces to the use of two pens - a large marker pen to show where you want the hole, and a second smaller one to sign the cheque. Nowadays the second pen can be replaced by BACS....

    A similar thought occurs when you are too old to dig trenches for SWA any more.

    Mike

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