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Cooker and shower on the same circuit

Hello everyone,

A few months back, a qualified electrician told me that a cooker and a shower can both be put on the same circuit; that doesn't sound right, surely loads using such a large amount of power must be on their own individual circuits?

I haven't been able to ask a question about this until now because I had difficulty logging into my IET account and had to get a new username and password for it.

Thank you,

Dasa

Parents
  • Are people saying that no flats supplied by a 10sq.mm. submain and 60A fuse should have a cooker and a shower?

  • It seems that Sparkingchip is, and why is beyond me! However, it is not the first time...

  • Legh, this circuit will not run "hot" as you claim, please explain what you mean with a proper example.

Reply
  • Legh, this circuit will not run "hot" as you claim, please explain what you mean with a proper example.

Children
  • If you design a circuit with a protective device the protection is there to disconnect either where there is a fault or/and overload condition.

    I was under the belief that long term expected overloads in domestic appliances are not to be encouraged as ebee has stated designing a circuit where the load current exceeds the rating of the device will cause the device to disconnect, the greater the difference between the protective device rating and the full load current will shorten the length of time that the circuit stays operative. The device is now generating heat which will have a heating effect on surrounding protective devices particularly in small domestic consumer units. This term is known as running hot.

    Lets take a simplistic example

    A final circuit protected by a B32A MCB that is used to supply a 10kW cooker, connecting a smallish 8.5kW shower will add a 36.5 A loading to a 20A FLC including diversity for the effects of the rheostats.

    The B32A breaker will disconnect in approximately 200secs with 56.5A FLC. Only a clown would attempt to reconnect the circuit as the protective device is now warm and will trip even earlier.

    Now we have to consider the size of the cable conductors supplying this setup. If the circuit was designed for the cooker then the cable size is likely to be 6.0mm²; if designed for a the shower and the cooker is an add-on then the cable may be 10.0mm² but with the prevailant design attitude shown here it is more likely to be 6.0mm².

    There are various installation method options here. Lets assume method C with a 6.0mm2 Best case here is 46A.

    So now the cable will begin to get warm. probably not too serious if out in the open but will be a heat generator in the consumer unit.

  • Well, I was thinking more about a circuit with a B40 and a 6mm or (preferably) 10mm cable. With those, you're unlikely to get a trip, nor for the cable to get too hot. Consider a 6mm cable with a 56.5A temporary overload current. That will generate about 19W of heat per metre of cable. Assuming the part of the cable within the CU is 20cm long, that's a bit under 4W extra heat going into the CU - it's hardly going to cook it. And as has been pointed out, after a few minutes the oven thermostat will turn off and/or people will turn the rings right down as pans reach boiling point.

    How do you feel about a house with a 60A DNO fuse where there's a cooker, shower, kettle, washing machine and a couple of electric heaters all on the go?

  • Most modern house have an 80 or 100 Amp main fuse. Only small houses, old installations or flats may have a 60 Amp main fuse.

    Z.

  • That is not relevant, they still have a 5-10A supply.  How dies a 100A fuse change anything except stopping DNO callouts?

  • Quote...."How do you feel about a house with a 60A DNO fuse where there's a cooker, shower, kettle, washing machine and a couple of electric heaters all on the go?"

    Z.