Rules and Guidelines
Want to participate in the discussions? Please read our Community Rules and Guidelines. Need some help? Visit Support and Answers.

  • State Not Answered
  • Locked Locked
  • Replies 19 replies
  • Subscribers 42 subscribers
  • Views 8301 views
  • Users 0 members are here
Options
You may also be interested in
This discussion is locked.
You cannot post a reply to this discussion. If you have a question start a new discussion

Commercial Kitchen Sockets

Andy Barton

Good Evening Everyone,

The following issue I have been following for a couple of years now, and it's in regards to 13A sockets burning out in commercial kitchens. Everyone seems to recognise MK sockets and plugs are of a better standard, however, they are still burning out on griddles and fryers. 

Dependent on the client, they are open to changing them to a commando and not worrying about voiding the warranty. The kitchen in question has two 32A feeds and each feed supplies two 1G sockets as each appliance has two plugs. 

After much deliberation I think the most economic solution is to put two 32A surface commandos on each supply then make up a 32A commando connector going into a mini DB with 16A RCBOs and then two 16A flying commandos wired in H07RN cable to supply each connection on the appliances. 

In an ideal world, I would bring in four new 16A supplies from the DB each having its own RCBO. However, the run is long and the client wanted a cheaper option. What are everyone's thoughts on this is I'm open to trying to find a solution as almost every kitchen seems to have the same issue when grease and water are involved. 

Thanks in advance,

Andy

Parents
  • 0

    "13A" sockets are odd beasts. The standard only requires the entire unit to be able to supply 13A - so a total of 13A for a double, not 13A each so 26A - and then only for certain ambient temperatures (max 25ºC average over 24 hours comes to mind) and even then not necessarily continuously for extended periods.

    There has been trouble with 13A sockets overheating with near 13A loads on for many hours - e.g. when used to charge electric vehicles. There are now "EV" variants which are supposed to be better at supplying the full 13A for many hours at a time.

    MK used to rate their sockets at 13A per outlet - so 26A for a double - but the design has changed over the years and the old statement seems to be missing from newer specifications. Generally things seem to be a lot more stamped steel rather than milled brass and soft plastics rather than hard UF - things aren't what they used to be...

    So there are perhaps a number of options before going down the industrial socket route...

    1. If the sockets are doubles, replace each with two singles.

    2. Try "EV" marked single sockets

    3. Try to position where the ambient temperature might not be quite so high (just a bit further from the fryer etc, or just around a corner, if the flex length allows)

    or if you do go down the industrial socket route (which might not be bad idea anyway if the walls need regular washing down) and need to provide lower overcurrent protection you can get sockets in an enclosure that also contains a small DIN rail - so you can add MCBs/RCCBs/RCBOs to suit.

      - Andy.

Reply
  • 0

    "13A" sockets are odd beasts. The standard only requires the entire unit to be able to supply 13A - so a total of 13A for a double, not 13A each so 26A - and then only for certain ambient temperatures (max 25ºC average over 24 hours comes to mind) and even then not necessarily continuously for extended periods.

    There has been trouble with 13A sockets overheating with near 13A loads on for many hours - e.g. when used to charge electric vehicles. There are now "EV" variants which are supposed to be better at supplying the full 13A for many hours at a time.

    MK used to rate their sockets at 13A per outlet - so 26A for a double - but the design has changed over the years and the old statement seems to be missing from newer specifications. Generally things seem to be a lot more stamped steel rather than milled brass and soft plastics rather than hard UF - things aren't what they used to be...

    So there are perhaps a number of options before going down the industrial socket route...

    1. If the sockets are doubles, replace each with two singles.

    2. Try "EV" marked single sockets

    3. Try to position where the ambient temperature might not be quite so high (just a bit further from the fryer etc, or just around a corner, if the flex length allows)

    or if you do go down the industrial socket route (which might not be bad idea anyway if the walls need regular washing down) and need to provide lower overcurrent protection you can get sockets in an enclosure that also contains a small DIN rail - so you can add MCBs/RCCBs/RCBOs to suit.

      - Andy.

Children
No Data

Join us to get the best from IET EngX.

Joining EngX lets you personalise your experience so you stay up to date on the topics that interest you, plus you’ll be able to make connections who are looking to collaborate, exchange ideas and more.

Join us Not now

Community Rules & Guidelines