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Induction hob spark fault

Went to a call out. I was told that the induction hob sparked while in use which tripped the RCD. It's a hob and oven on a circuit together. Apparently the same thing happened before (last year I think) so the hob and oven were replaced (student property). Any ideas what may have caused this? The only thing I thought of was loose connections (causing an arc which creates a surge in the hob?). The cooker plate connections were loose so I tightened them. Any other ideas? Maybe:

Loose connections or cable damage (limiting the current flow to the appliance or creating arcs?)

Faulty appliance

Incorrect polarity?

Incorrect voltage?

Thanks.

Parents
  • A Zs test verifies a path from the live back to something - but it may just be neutral at the company cut out on a TNC-s.  I have heard (but only heard of, never seen)  where the supply to the house was L-N reversed after some DNPO works , so that all the house metal work was alive. No shocks except off the outside tap. More common is a high impedance earth cable, or a faulty PEN.  I;d not bother to disconnect bonds at this stage. Just verify that the cooker really is earthed before starting, a screwdriver in the lawn is a 10 minute check of sanity to eliminate the worst possible case, that very rarely happens. But if it ever does, stop and think.

    But you have a good Zs from the cooker body ? Good.

    But actually sparking sounds from the switch and some rings not working sounds like it may need a new switch, and something nasty has happened in the hob or its controls.
    But even before that just check it is not one of those universal 3 phase /split phase/ single phase hobs with far too many terminals and some sort of link kit for single phase for  the UK model and someone has only put live to phase one, but not but power to the other phase or phases or forgotten to tighten one or something.

    (if in doubt take a photo of the terminals and post it - we may well have seen it before.)

    Mike.

  • Thanks for the help. I'll go back and do the true earth test and check the hob terminals. Then I can suggest changing the cooker switch and the hob. Seems strange that the same thing happened before with the previous hob and oven like it's a problem caused by the installation, not the appliances. 

  • yes - that is why I wonder about a 3 phase type cooker and a 1 phase supply, and a 'our shop's skilled installer' not realizing there should be a link kit, or verifying L and N the switch on the wall.

  • Is that true earth test just on low ohms setting? Aka a dead test

  • It is better done with no dismantling as a 'live'  AC volts test . Just a metal peg, screwdriver or garden fork, and a length of almost any old wire with a croc clip to get it indoors... It is only a quick 'is it safe to proceed?' thing.
    Usually followed by reading a very low voltage (no more than half a dozen volts if all is well) and a sigh  of relief. But if it isn't then stop.

    A normal ohm-meter is DC, being battery driven, and tends to be fooled by  electrolytic effects as the mud and the metal electrodes form a half-hearted battery of their own..

    A proper earth rod test meter of the kind you use to test electrodes when no supply is available in effect reverses the DC many times a second, and is really a  meter that applies an alternating test voltage if you do it as resistance

    M.

  • Sorry if I'm being dumb here but can I do this test with a multimeter (basic Megger)? That's all I have currently. I've got some copper tube and a long lead. So drive that tube in the ground, connect the long lead to it, then will testing the earth terminal at the cooker work on DC low ohms reading with the circuit dead? Or a live Zs test between line terminal on the cooker to the copper rod in the garden? Both to see if the current finds that path back through the ground to the transformer true earth connection? Kind of like a TT system (which I've never worked on). I might expect to get under 200 ohms, but any reading would suggest the transformer sub station true earth connection is sound?

  • I have come across a cooker that tripped the R.C.D. OFF when the appliances was turned OFF. I witnessed this myself after the householder told me. I concluded that perhaps an inductive part of the cooker such as a fan motor winding was causing a high Voltage spark inside the cooker at switch off that tripped off the R.C.D. The cooker worked perfectly when connected to a non R.C.D. supply. I did carefully check the earthing and Zs.

    Z.

  • Of course, the other thing in common in both cases is students.  They are not known for taking the best care of shared cooking equipment.

Reply
  • Of course, the other thing in common in both cases is students.  They are not known for taking the best care of shared cooking equipment.

Children
  • Hm, cooking! I suppose that if you are referring to re-heating take-aways, or warming up ready meals, you are correct.