Induction hob spark fault

try this

but instead of testing L-N, the two leads go one to your test spike and the other to whatever you are checking, in this case the metal frame of the  cooker.

No need to turn anything off.

If you prefer you could test from MET to the spike and then ohms test to the cooker.

Hope this helps.

(also for a volt test your temporary spike only needs to go in about 6 inches, as you are not passing any great current.)

Mike

Megger mft 1711

You could try an ohms range reading but I'm not too sure what you'd get.  If you try and Zs to a  temporary electrode

1) It is live during that test

2)  the resistance tells you more about that electrode than the ones that belong to the DNO.

A normal ohms test is  better than nothing, but try both ways round as it may nor work that well.

M.

Err which meggar ? What do you normally use to measure volts ?

if you can tell me the model no, I can probably suggest the best test strategy.

M.

Sorry if I'm being dumb here but can I do this test with a multimeter (basic Megger)? That's all I have currently. I've got some copper tube and a long lead. So drive that tube in the ground, connect the long lead to it, then will testing the earth terminal at the cooker work on DC low ohms reading with the circuit dead? Or a live Zs test between line terminal on the cooker to the copper rod in the garden? Both to see if the current finds that path back through the ground to the transformer true earth connection? Kind of like a TT system (which I've never worked on). I might expect to get under 200 ohms, but any reading would suggest the transformer sub station true earth connection is sound?

It is better done with no dismantling as a 'live'  AC volts test . Just a metal peg, screwdriver or garden fork, and a length of almost any old wire with a croc clip to get it indoors... It is only a quick 'is it safe to proceed?' thing.
Usually followed by reading a very low voltage (no more than half a dozen volts if all is well) and a sigh  of relief. But if it isn't then stop.

A normal ohm-meter is DC, being battery driven, and tends to be fooled by  electrolytic effects as the mud and the metal electrodes form a half-hearted battery of their own..

A proper earth rod test meter of the kind you use to test electrodes when no supply is available in effect reverses the DC many times a second, and is really a  meter that applies an alternating test voltage if you do it as resistance

M.

Is that true earth test just on low ohms setting? Aka a dead test

yes - that is why I wonder about a 3 phase type cooker and a 1 phase supply, and a 'our shop's skilled installer' not realizing there should be a link kit, or verifying L and N the switch on the wall.

Thanks for the help. I'll go back and do the true earth test and check the hob terminals. Then I can suggest changing the cooker switch and the hob. Seems strange that the same thing happened before with the previous hob and oven like it's a problem caused by the installation, not the appliances. 

A Zs test verifies a path from the live back to something - but it may just be neutral at the company cut out on a TNC-s.  I have heard (but only heard of, never seen)  where the supply to the house was L-N reversed after some DNPO works , so that all the house metal work was alive. No shocks except off the outside tap. More common is a high impedance earth cable, or a faulty PEN.  I;d not bother to disconnect bonds at this stage. Just verify that the cooker really is earthed before starting, a screwdriver in the lawn is a 10 minute check of sanity to eliminate the worst possible case, that very rarely happens. But if it ever does, stop and think.

But you have a good Zs from the cooker body ? Good.

But actually sparking sounds from the switch and some rings not working sounds like it may need a new switch, and something nasty has happened in the hob or its controls.
But even before that just check it is not one of those universal 3 phase /split phase/ single phase hobs with far too many terminals and some sort of link kit for single phase for  the UK model and someone has only put live to phase one, but not but power to the other phase or phases or forgotten to tighten one or something.

(if in doubt take a photo of the terminals and post it - we may well have seen it before.)

Mike.