Compressor Motor, Early Failure.

AFAIK, several voltages are used in Mexico.  Some parts follow USA practice under which 208 volts, 240 volts or 277 volts are all used, for high loading appliances, with 120 volts for lighting and small appliances. Other places follow South American practice, with 220 volts being popular.  Sometimes from a single phase three wire system at 110/220 volts and sometimes from a three phase four wire system at 220/380 volts.

The design of the capacitor is unlikely to be relevant. The capacitor might have failed and in so doing might have killed the motor, the motor SHOULD be protected against against such an eventuality.

So, if the thing was designed to run on 220 Volts and was used here on 240 Volts that may have stressed it. Or, if the capacitor has failed, the motor would not start and perhaps burned out. There is nothing obvious regarding burning or strange smells etc. I have advised the owner to get in touch with his refrigeration engineer as I can do no more.

P.S. Upon initial arrival I found the supplying consumer unit open with no cover. When I was refitting the cover I noticed loose internal tails that just pulled out of the main switch terminals. W.T.F. I thought, who has been meddling in here. I had worked on that consumer unit about 3 to 4 years ago, and I know that I would not have left it like that. It was a plastic consumer unit with a fire just waiting to happen.

Z.

It is possible that the kit is really intended for 60Hz rather than 50, and the cap is 20% undersized,  but most well thought out designs for export should work on either.  The makers are best placed to advise.

Barring a manufacturing error, motor overheating is the most likely cause of the insulation fault, perhaps due to protracted starting, or a use case that leaves the door open too frequently and so involves far more starts per hour than the makers ever  intended, or of course just under-design generally.

However, unless the capacitor itself is faulty (did you verify the capacitance? ) it is not likely to be the culprit, but never say never. Unless the cap was not changed last time, and has always been undersized..

In UK refrigeration pumps usually  the motor starts with two windings, one start winding delayed by a capacitor as a phase shifter, and the other wired direct to main. There is then  a centrifugal or timer mechanism that disconnects the capacitor and starter winding once it has begun to rotate. Larger systems have solenoid actuated  valves in the coolant loop that can reduce the back pressure on starting up. Much beyond that it gets simpler again, as 3 phases become the norm and the starter switching is no longer needed.

Do note that in south America generally,  (Except Argentina and Bolivia - always some exceptions) even the 220V regions  like Brazil, the mains frequency is nominally 60Hz - it makes their transformers and motors noticeably look a bit light by European standards.

Mike.

Mike.

An interesting video taken in the States.

Z.

WALK IN BREAKER KEEPS TRIPPING - YouTube

No Mike I did not test the capacitor apart from reading the info on its label. I passed the buck to enable me to get to my next job. I have learned from bitter experience not to get too involved with things you can't repair or which are beyond your skills set.