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Campsite Showers Water Heating. For Chris P.

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50kVA diesel three phase generator supply.

Assume two male and two female showers, or are they all uni-sex these days?

I propose to suggest a large hot water tank for hot water storage, (thanks Simon Barker & Broadgage) then have three (say 1kW or 1.5kW or 2kW} immersion heaters if available, to heat the water. This will provide a balanced limited load to assist the generator in starting willingly. A single water thermostat controlling a three phase contactor to control the immersion heaters, to switch them all on or off at the same time. Perhaps a second maually re-settable  "safety" hot water thermostat to cut off it the water becomes too hot.

The hot water storage tank can have a coil for thermal solar panel water heating.

So, what capacity of tank will I need?

What will the heat recovery time be?

What types of showers and shower pump(s)?

If available where can such an insulated  tank be obtained?

What about hot water temperature safety at the shower heads?

Other?

Z.

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    heat ex changers may be the safer way to avoid mould spores in the house air.

    Indeed, but then the efficiency losses start to mount - the incoming air (in summer) is often only slightly cooler than the desired indoor temperature (especially after a few weeks of summer when the process has gradually warmed the soil around the pipe) - sticking it through an acceptably-small-to-fit-in-the-house sized heat exchanger will reduce the temperature difference (and benefit) further. You'd likely also need to power and extra fan and still have to periodically clean the exchanger surfaces (same problem). At some point a ground source heat pump (for cooling or heating) starts to look attractive.

    There are similarly interesting problem with extracting heat from waste water. In a very well insulated house more energy can go on heating tap water than space heating - and all that heat is thrown away after one use. There have been a number of schemes to try and recover that heat - there are a number of challenges - but probably the most difficult is that of heat exchange surfaces becoming coated in the slimy mess that seems to accumulate in waste water pipes.

       - Andy.

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    heat ex changers may be the safer way to avoid mould spores in the house air.

    Indeed, but then the efficiency losses start to mount - the incoming air (in summer) is often only slightly cooler than the desired indoor temperature (especially after a few weeks of summer when the process has gradually warmed the soil around the pipe) - sticking it through an acceptably-small-to-fit-in-the-house sized heat exchanger will reduce the temperature difference (and benefit) further. You'd likely also need to power and extra fan and still have to periodically clean the exchanger surfaces (same problem). At some point a ground source heat pump (for cooling or heating) starts to look attractive.

    There are similarly interesting problem with extracting heat from waste water. In a very well insulated house more energy can go on heating tap water than space heating - and all that heat is thrown away after one use. There have been a number of schemes to try and recover that heat - there are a number of challenges - but probably the most difficult is that of heat exchange surfaces becoming coated in the slimy mess that seems to accumulate in waste water pipes.

       - Andy.

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