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EICR - does bathroom lighting outside zone 2 need to conform with IP rating and additional rcd protection?

Hi, I have received an EICR certificate with 2 C2s on bathroom lighting 1) Bathroom lighting does not conform to IP rating (note the lighting outside the zone based on published zoning guidance (low voltage spot light) but inspector insisted on ignoring the zoning guidance) 2) Bathroom lighting circuit is not connected to an RCD also supplementary bonding is not visible. 

Questions- 1) Are the C2s legitimate? As a layman, I find it difficult to understand why the inspector insisted on ignoring the bathroom zoning regulation (my ceiling is actually higher than most of the newer flat) . 2) Also how do I find out whether there is supplemental bonding in the bathroom lighting circuit (nothing is visible outside) - does it really warrant a C2 if I cannot prove that there is supplemental bonding (the lighting in my bathroom is low voltage (I don’t know what is the voltage but it is very dim) and is located outside zone) . 3) If the C2s are legitimate, how can I fix the issue with minimal cost? 

many thanks for your time in advance.

Parents
  • Well C1 is immediate danger so exposed live metal in  a place you could touch perhaps.

    C2 is potentially dangerous, and is a bit open to interpretation in some quarters.
    Some folk are very nervous of liability and tend to fail things that are not that bad, and others are so laid back as to be near horizontal and leave things that really should be picked up...

    C3 is recommend improvement but not urgent.

    So

    1) Where are these lights in relation to the water and steam and so on, - ask yourself honestly if there is something that makes the lights or their location unsuitable - does it look like they get splashed, are they going rusty, or are they high and dry and well out of the region of concern ?

    'dim' does not guarantee extra low voltage, inadequate lights may also be mains powered sadly. But there may be a transformer in the ceiling void or loft above or something. If upstairs is someone elses flat it is harder to check.

     RCDs or bonding, well you need at least one, ideally both.

    2) bonding.

    To check for bonding the usual method is a check with an  ohm- meter for a low resistance between metal things like taps and radiators that you may find yourself holding while wet, that are connected to metal pipes that can carry a shock current in or out of the bathroom. Plastic pipes are not normally an issue unless very short - a metre or two  of water column in a plastic tube is quite a good current limit.

    The idea is that the bonding connects them solidly together, so that your wet body does not - or at least there is a low resistance path that most of the current will take that is not through you...

    3) RCD,

    This may be easy or hellish tricky depending how it was first done.

    Can you post a photo of your fuse board/ consumer unit that supplies the bathroom lights ? The detail of the design and if there are any free spaces or if it is rammed full make a difference. (Or space for a small box along side with an RCD in it..)

    Mike.

Reply
  • Well C1 is immediate danger so exposed live metal in  a place you could touch perhaps.

    C2 is potentially dangerous, and is a bit open to interpretation in some quarters.
    Some folk are very nervous of liability and tend to fail things that are not that bad, and others are so laid back as to be near horizontal and leave things that really should be picked up...

    C3 is recommend improvement but not urgent.

    So

    1) Where are these lights in relation to the water and steam and so on, - ask yourself honestly if there is something that makes the lights or their location unsuitable - does it look like they get splashed, are they going rusty, or are they high and dry and well out of the region of concern ?

    'dim' does not guarantee extra low voltage, inadequate lights may also be mains powered sadly. But there may be a transformer in the ceiling void or loft above or something. If upstairs is someone elses flat it is harder to check.

     RCDs or bonding, well you need at least one, ideally both.

    2) bonding.

    To check for bonding the usual method is a check with an  ohm- meter for a low resistance between metal things like taps and radiators that you may find yourself holding while wet, that are connected to metal pipes that can carry a shock current in or out of the bathroom. Plastic pipes are not normally an issue unless very short - a metre or two  of water column in a plastic tube is quite a good current limit.

    The idea is that the bonding connects them solidly together, so that your wet body does not - or at least there is a low resistance path that most of the current will take that is not through you...

    3) RCD,

    This may be easy or hellish tricky depending how it was first done.

    Can you post a photo of your fuse board/ consumer unit that supplies the bathroom lights ? The detail of the design and if there are any free spaces or if it is rammed full make a difference. (Or space for a small box along side with an RCD in it..)

    Mike.

Children
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