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What torque settings for accessory screws.

As a newish teacher I am trying to get students to fix things with the correct amount of torque.

Tightening brass screws like they are wheel nuts does not give materials much of a lifespan.

So I bought a couple of torque screwdrivers, so they can quickly get a feel for how tight things should be.

However now I look at data sheets I can't seem to find Torque info for anything smaller than a a miniature circuit breaker.

The data sheets now often include other everyday information like Altitude.

Does anyone have some guidance for smaller brass screw torques, or know of a manufacturer that publishes such data?

  • An interesting video. especially the first one - same sort four  terminal 'kelvin' test I was alluding to above.

    No mention of wetting current though - the key is the pressure on the copper needs to be enough to get force a near flat contact,, but more does no good, and of course a lot more just extrudes the cores to nothing, and they may then snap at the 'neck' .

    Mike.

  • What about over-tightening terminals (perhaps not just "chinesium" that's an issue): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB-Zh89nHnk

    A few comments about "getting the feel" - this is worth a watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEPZ3Lf9VmA

  • Jaymack echoed my sentiments.

    Anyone doing electrics needs a few practice runs to get the torque reasonable by feel.

    With bigger stuff (and to a smaller extent even the small stuff) a wiggle twist then tighten say three times in succession has some merit. Meter tails are a prime example. Sometimes (as JP has eluded to) give it a couple o` weeks or three and repeat the procedure if it`s possible.

    However, tightening nuts and bolts on car stuff really does need the correct procedure and torque tools.

  • The problem with a calculation like that is that the surface is microscopically rough, and we have to get the atoms in the two metal parts close enough that they can exchange electrons, either by overlapping of outer orbitals or quantum tunneling.

    What actually happens is much more complex, especially if there is not a lot of mechanical pressure - for example when a twisted wire joint is first made, the resistance is quite high, as the surfaces make contact only on high spots. This is evidenced by 4 wire (kelvin) testing at microampere currents. However, if there is the voltage to drive it, then enough current flows to cause the very tips of the microscopic mountain range that are making contact to soften due to resistive heating, and form a local spot weld - very local  sub micron details, not even noticeable when the wire is untwisted except under an electron microscope.Once an initial current has flowed the resistance falls sharply, and stays down.

    It is also why soft metals like gold make better contacts, but wear away faster. This ''wetting' current effect also is the principle behind the line cleaning current used on the analog phone likes to fix crackes. either fuse it shut or blow it open, in one case it is job done, and in the other there is now a clear fault that can be found.
    The key really is pressure - the area needed is not great but the springs need to be up to it.

    You could make a connector like a hose clip, but at 50 Hz it is not worth it.


    Mike.

  • There must be some width to the spring contact. It appears to be about 4 mm long in ordinary Wagos. So the contact patch need be only about 0.3 mm wide to get to about 2.5 mm².

  • There is a distinct danger in using a torque screwdriver or torque spanner, if the setting is not carefully checked.

    Torque settings have their place; I wouldn't tighten a car engine, cylinder head without the makers' settings and tightening sequence without a torque spanner but experienced electricians should be able to use a normal screwdriver or spanner by feel. 

    Jaymack      

  • Does anybody worry about spring loaded/levered clamps for conductors? I do.

    It`s still basically two flat plates on a round conductor.

    With the old tunnel terminals and either seven (or more) strands or doubling/trebling/quadrupling etc etc you get more are of contact on the circumference of the terminal. Surely the point of contact is the weakest link in the chain.

    So yer pushfit or levered wagos etc do not fill me with confidence for load transfer, not so much as tightening and slightly distorting.

    In an ideal world (one that does not exist) we would fill the hole with conductor, as we start to approach that thought we produce a more electrically reliable joint?

  • Excellent idea, I shall get one of those micro cameras, and project it on the screen. In fact I could set up up in class and they could all try it how much they crush wires. 

    Edit (1 min) :  Woah. How much is the right amount of "crush" of a cable? A whole new can of issues. But still a exercise of interest. 

  • Thanks, but the point is not to teach them to use a torque screwdriver on everything, (I don't have enough torque screwdrivers anyway) but to help give them get a feel for how tight things should be.

  • Thank you gKenyon, very helpful. Your answers on other topics (other peoples questions) have helped me before.