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What torque settings for accessory screws.

As a newish teacher I am trying to get students to fix things with the correct amount of torque.

Tightening brass screws like they are wheel nuts does not give materials much of a lifespan.

So I bought a couple of torque screwdrivers, so they can quickly get a feel for how tight things should be.

However now I look at data sheets I can't seem to find Torque info for anything smaller than a a miniature circuit breaker.

The data sheets now often include other everyday information like Altitude.

Does anyone have some guidance for smaller brass screw torques, or know of a manufacturer that publishes such data?

  • There must be some width to the spring contact. It appears to be about 4 mm long in ordinary Wagos. So the contact patch need be only about 0.3 mm wide to get to about 2.5 mm².

  • The problem with a calculation like that is that the surface is microscopically rough, and we have to get the atoms in the two metal parts close enough that they can exchange electrons, either by overlapping of outer orbitals or quantum tunneling.

    What actually happens is much more complex, especially if there is not a lot of mechanical pressure - for example when a twisted wire joint is first made, the resistance is quite high, as the surfaces make contact only on high spots. This is evidenced by 4 wire (kelvin) testing at microampere currents. However, if there is the voltage to drive it, then enough current flows to cause the very tips of the microscopic mountain range that are making contact to soften due to resistive heating, and form a local spot weld - very local  sub micron details, not even noticeable when the wire is untwisted except under an electron microscope.Once an initial current has flowed the resistance falls sharply, and stays down.

    It is also why soft metals like gold make better contacts, but wear away faster. This ''wetting' current effect also is the principle behind the line cleaning current used on the analog phone likes to fix crackes. either fuse it shut or blow it open, in one case it is job done, and in the other there is now a clear fault that can be found.
    The key really is pressure - the area needed is not great but the springs need to be up to it.

    You could make a connector like a hose clip, but at 50 Hz it is not worth it.


    Mike.

  • Jaymack echoed my sentiments.

    Anyone doing electrics needs a few practice runs to get the torque reasonable by feel.

    With bigger stuff (and to a smaller extent even the small stuff) a wiggle twist then tighten say three times in succession has some merit. Meter tails are a prime example. Sometimes (as JP has eluded to) give it a couple o` weeks or three and repeat the procedure if it`s possible.

    However, tightening nuts and bolts on car stuff really does need the correct procedure and torque tools.

  • What about over-tightening terminals (perhaps not just "chinesium" that's an issue): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB-Zh89nHnk

    A few comments about "getting the feel" - this is worth a watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEPZ3Lf9VmA

  • An interesting video. especially the first one - same sort four  terminal 'kelvin' test I was alluding to above.

    No mention of wetting current though - the key is the pressure on the copper needs to be enough to get force a near flat contact,, but more does no good, and of course a lot more just extrudes the cores to nothing, and they may then snap at the 'neck' .

    Mike.