This discussion is locked.
You cannot post a reply to this discussion. If you have a question start a new discussion

What torque settings for accessory screws.

As a newish teacher I am trying to get students to fix things with the correct amount of torque.

Tightening brass screws like they are wheel nuts does not give materials much of a lifespan.

So I bought a couple of torque screwdrivers, so they can quickly get a feel for how tight things should be.

However now I look at data sheets I can't seem to find Torque info for anything smaller than a a miniature circuit breaker.

The data sheets now often include other everyday information like Altitude.

Does anyone have some guidance for smaller brass screw torques, or know of a manufacturer that publishes such data?

  • Never mind torque settings for brass and steel screws, I have more problem with the Chinesium screws that seem to be supplied with a lot of things these days (especially as fixing screws which I normally throw straight in the bin and replace with proper screws, but also as terminal screws).  I've eaten cream cheese with greater strength than some of those.....

  • The large bolt tightening hydraulic "pullers" for the bolt (stud) are interesting, there are a couple of ship engine videos on youtube. The tension in a 50mm grade 16 stud might well be 150 tons, and getting that force with a screw thread is an impossible torque, even with a very fine thread! "Given a long enough lever I can move the Earth comes to mind".

  • Thanks. This is what I have always done, but these kids have not grown up with screwdrivers in their hands and most seem to have zero practical skills. I think feel does trump torque settings in many situations, but I am looking to give them a start point. 

  • Thanks. I agree but I need these students to quickly find a starting point. I cant' think of a situation where a 1mm and 10 mm cable would use the same size terminal unless someone put them both into the same terminal, not a good idea. But is illustrates the complexity of the issue.

  • Yes trashing some brass screws to start with may save some accessories. Good idea if torque settings are not forthcoming.

  • Thank you gKenyon, very helpful. Your answers on other topics (other peoples questions) have helped me before. 

  • Thanks, but the point is not to teach them to use a torque screwdriver on everything, (I don't have enough torque screwdrivers anyway) but to help give them get a feel for how tight things should be.

  • Excellent idea, I shall get one of those micro cameras, and project it on the screen. In fact I could set up up in class and they could all try it how much they crush wires. 

    Edit (1 min) :  Woah. How much is the right amount of "crush" of a cable? A whole new can of issues. But still a exercise of interest. 

  • Does anybody worry about spring loaded/levered clamps for conductors? I do.

    It`s still basically two flat plates on a round conductor.

    With the old tunnel terminals and either seven (or more) strands or doubling/trebling/quadrupling etc etc you get more are of contact on the circumference of the terminal. Surely the point of contact is the weakest link in the chain.

    So yer pushfit or levered wagos etc do not fill me with confidence for load transfer, not so much as tightening and slightly distorting.

    In an ideal world (one that does not exist) we would fill the hole with conductor, as we start to approach that thought we produce a more electrically reliable joint?

  • There is a distinct danger in using a torque screwdriver or torque spanner, if the setting is not carefully checked.

    Torque settings have their place; I wouldn't tighten a car engine, cylinder head without the makers' settings and tightening sequence without a torque spanner but experienced electricians should be able to use a normal screwdriver or spanner by feel. 

    Jaymack