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support of overhead lines

Just want to check my interpretation of guidance

Just thinking about how to get a cable across to a single level garage. Personally I would prefer to take it underground but suspect the customer won't got for that.

From my interpretation according to table D2 in the onsite guide I can run any PVC cable for a span of 3m without any additional support, but it needs to be 3.5m above the ground. Sounds like the customer has already purchased some 16mm SWA cable, which is way over the tope for what he needs.

The obvious choice is to use a pole on the garage side, personally never liked the look of that. I am considering using something like a 4 * 2 or 3* 2 beam across the roughly 2m gap at about 2.4m, any reason why it wouldn't be acceptable?

If I go for the pole it doesn't look like I need a catenary wire, but it may be the easiest way of supporting it to avoid chafing anyway.

I welcome suggestions,

Parents
  • Even so, there are plenty of examples that do not meet that guidance but are fine in places that ladders will not be carried etc. (between adjacent farm buildngs side by side accross a gap not on the way to anywhere in particular comes to mind) . The key is to perform an assessment of the individual situaion.

    A cateneray wire might not be a bad idea if the mounting involves awkward angles - 16mm SWA will not want to be sharply flexed, - its not really a matter of strength but more one of speed to install and managing stress on the cable. Catenary eyes etc are not that expensive. Do not forget that it will droop - it takes an infinite tension to hold a wire horizontal, and a drop of 1/10 to  1/20 or so of the span at the low point  is a far more realistic target and will not pull the wall anchors out or the top brick off the row ;-)

    I'm sure it is obvious but bring the cable indoors into the dry at both ends to join it,and via some sort of drip loop, so water cannot run along the cable and downwards and in.

    Overhead wire is quite fun when you get used to it - my baptism of fire was a Scout Jamboree for 15000 odd scours with several km of festoon lights and 3 phase dstro between vertical  scaffolding poles. There we used the saddle clam style of scaff clamp and lay the cables in the up turned palm - very few building to buliding situations are that easy.

    Miike.

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  • Even so, there are plenty of examples that do not meet that guidance but are fine in places that ladders will not be carried etc. (between adjacent farm buildngs side by side accross a gap not on the way to anywhere in particular comes to mind) . The key is to perform an assessment of the individual situaion.

    A cateneray wire might not be a bad idea if the mounting involves awkward angles - 16mm SWA will not want to be sharply flexed, - its not really a matter of strength but more one of speed to install and managing stress on the cable. Catenary eyes etc are not that expensive. Do not forget that it will droop - it takes an infinite tension to hold a wire horizontal, and a drop of 1/10 to  1/20 or so of the span at the low point  is a far more realistic target and will not pull the wall anchors out or the top brick off the row ;-)

    I'm sure it is obvious but bring the cable indoors into the dry at both ends to join it,and via some sort of drip loop, so water cannot run along the cable and downwards and in.

    Overhead wire is quite fun when you get used to it - my baptism of fire was a Scout Jamboree for 15000 odd scours with several km of festoon lights and 3 phase dstro between vertical  scaffolding poles. There we used the saddle clam style of scaff clamp and lay the cables in the up turned palm - very few building to buliding situations are that easy.

    Miike.

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