Alternative solar supply available at point of use Domestic kitchen

Hello newbie : 

Imagine Domestic kitchen Usual array of sockets and under counter appliances

Wish Introduce  Alt solar supply sockets alongside existing grid supply sockets , Thus : User can select alternative ( solar ) supply as opportune arises  at point of use ( battery storage/ inverter system)

Eg plug microwave to alternative socket  as power opportunity ( battery charge is available ) 

(Alt supply sockets are entirely dedicated from inverter as typical OFF grid system ) 

Question  Is there  anything in regs preventing this ; Thought: The sockets must be somehow labelled / identified as alt supply  Any ideas to meet regs? 

Remark : similar to external generator supply but with NO changeover switches . Outlets are dedicated 

thanks Ms Otis 

Parents
  • Expecting the solar panel dc will be in order of 100V or so :  48V battery. :   Dont think unusual ?

    That sounds like a quite modest system then (my 2.14kWp PV array often chucks out over 400V on the d.c. side). If you can keep in the ELV range (50V a.c. or 120V ripple free d.c.) that certainly keep things simpler from a shock protection point of view. 48V means quite high currents though.

    I guess you'd need a 3kW inverter as a minimum (maybe higher to cope with more than one appliance or larger starting currents) - that would mean 62.5A (assuming 100% efficiency, again optimistic). if that's going through your buried 10mm² (presuming you actually have the CCC for that installation method - which looks marginal at first sight) 10mm² has a voltage drop of around 4.4mV/A/m - so  62.5A over 30m means about 8.25V voltage drop - so probably makes sense to have the inverter along side the battery in the garage, and send 230V a.c. back to the house.

    If the PV output to the battery is going through the underground cable you probably need to do a similar calculation (we don't have the numbers to do that yet). I guess it too will suggest the charger will have to be next to the battery - but the losses in the PV cables might still be significant.

    OK Know you recommended something before  Can you point me to a supplier for your recommendation .

    Suppliers are much of a muchness - so I'd suggest shopping around for a good deal (local availability and/or national delivery prices can often make more difference than the headline price) - so just as a random example - TLC Twinwall ducting (the usual convention is black for buried LV electric cables, other colours indicate other types of services - blue for water, yellow for gas, brown/teracotta for drains etc etc). You also need covers or tape to identify it - e.g. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FMPT103.html buried above it.

       - Andy.

  • so useful  again  Andy :

    62 A   I guess thats estimate battery supply A for inverter  48V battery dc  to invert 240V ac   

    solar array output??  :  Sizing of DC cables :( that will have to travel 30m roof to garage but only 15m underground . 

    Advice if you can : 

     looked at my sth facing roof  cf other solar panels in the area: Easily get 10 or more panels on it  Sent to my supplier  My supplier has them in two strings with (cant remember now) less than 15aA  DC  max  Didnt give voltage .  What kind of current do we expect from domestic roof panel installations to MPPT chargers ?  Ball park ? 

    Overall :  Reckon everyone had enough of this now  Anyway Can I keep in touch with you off this channel to bounced things off :?

    Remain committed BUT  : If I dont get the trenches dug before this spring fear  the impetus lost.  So cables sizes first even if over do it."

    "Already have grid source: Future uncertain : Let solar add measure of independence    

    think Not  the only one

    ciao  Ms O 

  •  looked at my sth facing roof  cf other solar panels in the area: Easily get 10 or more panels on it  Sent to my supplier  My supplier has them in two strings with (cant remember now) less than 15aA  DC  max  Didnt give voltage .  What kind of current do we expect from domestic roof panel installations to MPPT chargers ?  Ball park ? 

    Depends on the power output of the panels. My (10+ year old ones) are IIRC 240W peak each, a quick google suggest some modern ones can be around 400W.

    P=IV so if that can deliver 15A, for 5 panels in each string, for 240Wp panels that would be 1200Wp so 80V. For 400W panels, 2000Wp so 133V.  Maybe a bit more if the sun is bright and the panels new. That's all assuming the 15A is accurate...

       - Andy.

  • some modern ones can be around 400W.

    Or more?

  • andy g kenyon : I will get the data from supplier :  panels proposed are 400w each x 10 in two strings in parallel 

    Put that aside  I must still have clear idea to get the cables laid before anything :

    Issue  

    Earthing of solar panels mounting framework   2 B or not 2 B ?  Protections ?  lets assume pv gives dangerous voltage  See attached diagram  I cannot see any return path for current should eg the +ve somehow short to frame ?   The supply is floating ? Unless the charge controller should be earthed ?  No current flow then no trip disconnect ?  So why do it ?  What if any, protections should buyer add ?  Leave as double insulated ? ( squirrels  with sharp teeth clearly nesting in some solar arrays in my road!  Will insist on anti mounting )

    grateful again advice :  Ms O 

    PDF

  • Earthing of solar panels mounting framework   2 B or not 2 B ?  Protections ?

    Forget "ADS" style earthing and automatic disconnection as a means of shock protection on the d.c. side of PV - it just doesn't work. PV panels produce whatever current they produce (according to what the sun/clouds are doing at that moment) - there's no significant increase in current just because there's a short-circuit (to earth or any other way). So neither fuses nor circuit breaker are any use for ADS. In theory (and what's often done on a.c. systems with limited fault currents) you could have a N-PE link at the source and use an RCD for disconnection, but RCDs don't work on d.c. so that's a non starter for PV as well. Separated is a bit dodgy as it demands complete separation from other systems - which the battery charger (or conventionally an inverter) is unlikely to achieve to a sufficient standard. So all you're left with is SELV/PELV if the voltage is definitely within ELV range (won't be for a 4kW system), or double/reinforced insulation. So normally double/reinforced it is. If needs be you can add extra mechanical protection (e.g. conduit). You may still want to earth the frames for other reasons though (unfortunately I don't have the latest advise to hand - others here might know).

    panels proposed are 400w each x 10

    I'm probably getting ahead here, but what capacity of battery are you planning for? My circa 2kWp system can produce anything up to 14kWh a day (mostly a lot less, but I have had 14kWh on a few occasions and only a bit less on a larger number of days and so on) - so I'd guess your maximum could be in the region of 28kWh in a day - maybe more as you're a fair bit further south. I'm guessing the thinking is that it would be a shame to waste the power just because the battery was full. Can you presume that the battery would be discharged at dawn, and or there would be some reliable load during the day? Or would you want a bit more capacity so you could store excess for another day?

    Even if we work with wanting say 28kWh usable capacity, most batteries don't like going from fully charged to fully discharged - chemistries differ but I think LiIon generally want to say within the 20%-80% band for a decent lifetime - so you can only use say 60% of the nameplate capacity. Thus to get 28kWh you'd need about 47kWh nameplate. At 48V that's about 980 amp hours (Ah) worth (or nearly 4,000Ah at 12V) .... that's not going to be cheap (or small).

    Of course there's room for compromise - work with a lower storage capacity that would take all the generation over say 90% of the year so you're only wasting power on the few sunniest days. All choices to think about during the design process...

    That's another plus for the grid-connected approach - any excess you can do something useful with - i.e. export to the grid; and you can be paid for it - I think most smart export tariffs pay in the region of about 15p/kWh at the moment. That can add up over time and helps to soften the capital costs.

    Grid connected battery system are typically a lot smaller (mostly to make them less unaffordable) - often sized something in the region of one day's consumption (say 5 or 10kWh) - and there's a lot more to-ing and fro-ing with the grid to make up the differences - exporting on sunny days and importing on dull ones. In effect use the grid as a big (and not too expensive) battery. It might not always be there, but that doesn't stop you taking advantage when it is.

        - Andy.

  • Put that aside  I must still have clear idea to get the cables laid before anything

    and I think you still have the issue with the underground cables if you're running the d.c. PV side through them - the earthed armour approach doesn't work as there's no ADS, and the voltage will be too high for SELV/PELV.

       - Andy.

  • dear all I, In conclusion I am  taking away There is no virtue in earthing the mounting system of a  dc PV array ? Whether 200V or so or not Since there is no conventional fault protection to dc 

    So dont bother . Best is run in protective conduit and fingers crossed . ( Though with all the caveats about burying seems most go to nail it around some fencing as better? 

    I wanted this lot to be in my garage firstly out of latest concern LI batteries volatile fire issue ? Does anyone else think house insurance policies will become more adverse if you have one in teh house ?  It will surely happen soon some  ELV car will ignite the issue . 

    Anyway so now pondering to build a some outdoor housing closer to the house for this lot . My supplier quoted my £4000 for a proprietary thing .! No way  Any ideas.  But that still leaves another ac cable going to the garage as was goin to do same thing there " Independant sockets /  lawn mower / charge my bicyle battery  etc.   Could think of a changeover switch for that Existing ac cable going to garage. 

    A simple outhouse for the inverter batery would greatly reduce trenching  Simple small ( ugly changeover switch for garage might have to tolerate. 

    ANDY can I please ask separately on how you sized your system . My supplier ( recipe) has simply sized for a standard off grid whole smaller house.  I dont all that.  In particular how do we estimate recharge times for li batteries 

    I still want to go for this anyway . In five years time this system  " Grid /essential independence/ Select at point of use/  will be a regular choice !   Grid is wobbling / EDF nuclear power is cost trebling  Prices for electricity are going up and up. 

    ciao MsO 

  • ANDY can I please ask separately on how you sized your system

    It was just the largest we could fit on the available south facing roof space, given the power of the panels available at the time (2010), working around roof windows, a solar thermal panel and shadowing from a possible chimney re-build (which didn't happen in the end, but..)

       - Andy.

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  • ANDY can I please ask separately on how you sized your system

    It was just the largest we could fit on the available south facing roof space, given the power of the panels available at the time (2010), working around roof windows, a solar thermal panel and shadowing from a possible chimney re-build (which didn't happen in the end, but..)

       - Andy.

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