Does exposed basic insulation on downlights need to be resolved.

On EICR prior to a CU change I found about 12 downlights with basic insulation exposed, some connections in connector strip and some connector strip covered in insulation tape.

Napit code breakers recommends a C2 in this situation. 

 Best practice guide 4 says providing they are not easily accessible or likely to come in to contact with metal work code C3 is recommended.

In my mind best practice guide 4 is probably the more sensible approach. 

Something that I come across regularly

My planned approach going forward with exposed basic insulation will probably be:-

    In enclosed roof/floor space between building floors  C3

    In loft space with easy access C2

Connector strip covered in insulation tape C3

Not sure how I feel about just covering exposed connector strip with tape.

If I have to actually re-make the joints labour costs as much as the lights, so replacing probably makes sense and gives a good result providing hole size doesn't exceed say 85mm.

But if the existing holes exceed 100mm I end up using something like a 135mm concealer ring   which is a great technical solution, but in my opinion doesn't look great.

I think it's a reasonable solution if the customer has no plans to make other changes in the next few years.

My current customers plan to renew their kitching in the next year, I am sure they won't live with a compromise solution for the new kitchen. which means whatever I ask them to pay for replacing the lights or remedial work will effectively  be throw away money.

I am sure if I ask NAPIT support line 3 times I will get 3 different answers, all eventually coming down to the statement, use your engineering judgement. This email is an attempt to get opinions to help form that judgement.

  • At work,we define insulating tape as 'site applied insulation' in the installer's instructions for antenna cables, but only call it up for keeping drizzle out of connectors that are already IP 44 - not actually relying on it as 'insulating'.

    If the building is forming the enclosure - as it probably is in the ceiling to floor void, unless there are holes you can get a hand into then arguably it is not exposed to touch without the use of tools and nothing need be done, other than muttering about *** cowboys... that is an essential part of the assessment...


    Single insulation in the form of exposed coloured cores is poor practice but less of a risk that a choc-block where there is exposed metal, and that in turn is better when the screws and terminals are well down in the tunnels compared to the cheap clone stuff where the metal can be touched, or anything made off where there is a hedgehog of copper ends poking out the end...

    If it is exposed and may be easily touched without tools- like your loft example, these sort of things can be sometimes be  fitted without actually undoing anything, if you throw away the supplied terminal block and use nylon cable ties instead of the rather useless supplied cable clamps then the retro fitting can be  less than a minute and probably compares with a well done tape job. . Of course there will be cases that do not fit...

    In terms of real risk, perhaps ask yourself is it more or less of a hazard than a traditional  bayonet lampholder ?

    Mike.

  • One issue with insulating tape is that there are standards for the different types, covering relevant mechanical and electrical properties for the voltage ratings and conditions of use ... but not all insulating tape on the market has evidence it conforms to the British or BS EN standards !!!

    How can someone looking at the installation later know what tape that was applied and that it met the relevant standards?

  • Don't electrical connections need to be in a suitable enclosure? Wether that's a specific product or part of the building. Is it not about preventing heat/fire/sparks getting out in the event of an overheating/arcing bad connection? Also, even if connections where the cable sheathed is not clamped and are not in an accessible space still at risk of being disturbed by Mr Plumber shoving pipes through etc?

  • Don't electrical connections need to be in a suitable enclosure?

    Reg 526.5 ...give or take 526.5 (iii).

    The point about insulating tape still standards, whether or not it's in an enclosure.

    • An equipment enclosure complying with the appropriate product standard
    • An enclosure partially formed by or completed with building material that is non-combustible when tested to BS 476-4: Fire tests on building materials and structures. Non-combustibility test for materials.

    now 476-4 is quite a stiff test - harder actually than the glow wire test that applies to junction boxes,  a sample is placed in a furnace at 760C and examined for flames and out-gassing.  An all- wooden box will fail, but glass fibre insulation, plaster, cement and so forth pass. A choc block sitting on plasterboard is probably right on the limit of OK, as the enclosure is then completed by something incombustible, but it is not ideal

    Mike.

  • Some downlighters I've come across have two single core cables to the lamp, but they're actually insulated & sheathed - it's not at all obvious as the wires have a small conductor so even with the sheath they still look the same size as ordinary basic insulation only. So maybe worth a double check on that score.

    +1 for chock blocks needing an proper enclosure (or surrounded by fireproof construction materials) - tape won't stop an overheating joint setting fire to things. I suppose these days of LED downlighters the currents are pretty modest, so it's not quite the risk it used to be, but all the same I wouldn't object to a C2 on that score.

       - Andy.

  • The glue on insulating tapes does not last forever.

  • Not sure the enclosure MIke shows above would perform much better than the choc block on it's own.

  • I have observed that specific type of box being melted to a 50W GU10 lamp above a down lighter. 

  • oh no I agree it wont, its utter rubbish when heated,  but that is not what BS7671 requires - the cover just has to pass a product standard, and so long as it does that, then it does not have to be fire proof.

    Only enclosures that do not meet a suitable product standard have to be fireproof instead.,

    Mike