Bonding of a bolted-together equipment rack located in a vehicle

I have a custom built stainless steel equipment rack that is made up of many individual sections of stainless steel angle that are bolted together to form the complete rack. The stainless steel parts will not have any paint or finish applied. 

The equipment rack will be mounted in a vehicle with the bottom sections of the rack bolted to the metal floor of the vehicle. 

The equipment rack will have 12 Volt and 28 Volt equipment mounted on it.

My question.....

- Does a single wire connection from the vehicle's Main Earth Terminal (MET) to the equipment rack meet the protective bonding requirements?

I am hoping that I do not need to have a separate wire from the MET to each individual piece of steel angle, or a 'strap' linking the bolted-joints.


Parents
  • I was picturing in my head a horse lorry with living accommodation or a large motor home built on a lorry chassis cab.

    So, assuming the lorry has a 24 volt battery and electrical system, which is 28.8 volts when the engine and alternator is running and a 12 volt leisure battery  which is 14.4 volts when charging from the lorry electrical system, allowing the use of 12 volt electrical equipment built for motor homes and other vehicles, as well as 24 volt equipment built for lorries, some of which have cabs fitted out as living accommodation. So in my head I was picturing the DC return paths to the battery simply being through the rack and the bolts securing the rack to the metal vehicle body and chassis, with the equipment grounded to the rack and with bonding only being needed to complete the circuit if rack is secured to a fibreglass body or similar.

    If you are planning to run this equipment from the mains directly by reducing the voltage and converting to DC rather than just running of the vehicle electrics and it's a whole different ball game. 

    It was probably around six years ago I posted on this forum and had a conversation with the technical team at a shower waste pump manufacturer asking why their pumps and controls needed RCD protection, when the pump is actually a DC 24 V (28.8 volt) gulper bilge pump originally designed and built for pumping water out of boats. 

    It was hard to get the technical team to say it,  but there's a lack of full electrical separation between the 24 and 230 in their equipment,  so you could get a AC 230 volt shock off the DC 24 volt circuit and pump.

    So, I am not going to give you any advice  because what you require is dependent upon what equipment you use and how you connect it. 

    You need to use good quality equipment, follow the manufacturers instructions and ask them for any additional information you require. 

Reply
  • I was picturing in my head a horse lorry with living accommodation or a large motor home built on a lorry chassis cab.

    So, assuming the lorry has a 24 volt battery and electrical system, which is 28.8 volts when the engine and alternator is running and a 12 volt leisure battery  which is 14.4 volts when charging from the lorry electrical system, allowing the use of 12 volt electrical equipment built for motor homes and other vehicles, as well as 24 volt equipment built for lorries, some of which have cabs fitted out as living accommodation. So in my head I was picturing the DC return paths to the battery simply being through the rack and the bolts securing the rack to the metal vehicle body and chassis, with the equipment grounded to the rack and with bonding only being needed to complete the circuit if rack is secured to a fibreglass body or similar.

    If you are planning to run this equipment from the mains directly by reducing the voltage and converting to DC rather than just running of the vehicle electrics and it's a whole different ball game. 

    It was probably around six years ago I posted on this forum and had a conversation with the technical team at a shower waste pump manufacturer asking why their pumps and controls needed RCD protection, when the pump is actually a DC 24 V (28.8 volt) gulper bilge pump originally designed and built for pumping water out of boats. 

    It was hard to get the technical team to say it,  but there's a lack of full electrical separation between the 24 and 230 in their equipment,  so you could get a AC 230 volt shock off the DC 24 volt circuit and pump.

    So, I am not going to give you any advice  because what you require is dependent upon what equipment you use and how you connect it. 

    You need to use good quality equipment, follow the manufacturers instructions and ask them for any additional information you require. 

Children