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Advice on compliance with regulations for new kitchen and general wiring question

Jamesb

Hi all, a couple of things:

1. We are looking at getting a new kitchen - live in old house with COB/brick/thatch construction for info. The kitchen fitter sent his electrician a pic of the current Consumer Unit which is a Wylex split load RCD, plastic case and he wants to replace it. The house wiring contains a mix of old and new wiring colours, but I had an EICR about a year ago to comply with my insurance requirements and it passed OK. Is there any good reason for requiring a change? He said something, via the kitchen fitter, along the lines of conforming with current regulations back to the fuse box. Is this really the case as I didn't think so from what I've read? I'm a chartered engineer, but only work on low voltage stuff so need to check what the situation is with people familiar with the regulations working on this day in, day out before I start querying this if it goes ahead.

2. One of the circuits has a 10A MCB feeding a junction box just below the CU which feeds through to some outside lights (old halogens no longer working via armoured cable outside) and a 13a socket just below the CU. The location of socket means it's really just used to plug in the hoover. Where does this stand with regard to the regulations? i.e. a 10A limited MCB feeding a 13A socket and outside lights? For info, I am intending to replace the old halogens with newer LED types so hardly any current there, but looking more closely at it I came to notice this. 

Thanks, James.

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    For the cost of a new kitchen I would agree on the change of CU/consumer Unit to a 18th edition AM2 (Amendment 2) compliant board.  The EICR may have been a satisfactory but the EICR was to the install edition in your case probably 16th or 17th edition and not 18th.  Several reasons


    Compliant with current regulation

    Metal is non combustiable where as the plastic May/May NOT be

    SPD type 2 for the whole install

    Independent RCBO for each circuit thus have 30mA per circit rather than the current split RCD covering multiple circuits.  This starts to become an issue with earth leakage as we change from electrical items to electronic.  Eg Filament light to an LED light

    Have a look at leaving some spare ways in the CU for future expansion like EV or PV.  Also consider the kitchen wired separately on 2 Radial circuits for power, depends on how many appliances you will have.  Eg Electric oven and dishwasher and kettle all on at the same time.  Alternatively use 4mm2 CSA rather than 2.5mm2.

     
    Once all the work is complete the electrician should issue you with an EIC for the work and do the needed paperwork via their CPS (Competent Person Scheme).  Get this agreed in writing prior to work starting.

    For a good price and good quality CU have a lot at Verso/Navitas

    As a side note interlinked smoke alarms on all floors including the roof space with a Carbon Monoxide alarm in every room that has a fuel burning appliance.  Eg Gas Cooker, Gas boiler, log burner/wood burner

    With regards to all the lighting in the property and outside.  Change to LED.  A 7 to 10W LED will give about the same light output at a 60W filament lamp.  The main difference is the power consumption.  There are calculations which will allow you quickly see how many KwH a lamp uses then you can compare that with you energy provider tarrif.  eg 40 pence per KwH but in general a 10W LED uses about 1/5 of a 60W filament lamp.

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  • 0


    For the cost of a new kitchen I would agree on the change of CU/consumer Unit to a 18th edition AM2 (Amendment 2) compliant board.  The EICR may have been a satisfactory but the EICR was to the install edition in your case probably 16th or 17th edition and not 18th.  Several reasons


    Compliant with current regulation

    Metal is non combustiable where as the plastic May/May NOT be

    SPD type 2 for the whole install

    Independent RCBO for each circuit thus have 30mA per circit rather than the current split RCD covering multiple circuits.  This starts to become an issue with earth leakage as we change from electrical items to electronic.  Eg Filament light to an LED light

    Have a look at leaving some spare ways in the CU for future expansion like EV or PV.  Also consider the kitchen wired separately on 2 Radial circuits for power, depends on how many appliances you will have.  Eg Electric oven and dishwasher and kettle all on at the same time.  Alternatively use 4mm2 CSA rather than 2.5mm2.

     
    Once all the work is complete the electrician should issue you with an EIC for the work and do the needed paperwork via their CPS (Competent Person Scheme).  Get this agreed in writing prior to work starting.

    For a good price and good quality CU have a lot at Verso/Navitas

    As a side note interlinked smoke alarms on all floors including the roof space with a Carbon Monoxide alarm in every room that has a fuel burning appliance.  Eg Gas Cooker, Gas boiler, log burner/wood burner

    With regards to all the lighting in the property and outside.  Change to LED.  A 7 to 10W LED will give about the same light output at a 60W filament lamp.  The main difference is the power consumption.  There are calculations which will allow you quickly see how many KwH a lamp uses then you can compare that with you energy provider tarrif.  eg 40 pence per KwH but in general a 10W LED uses about 1/5 of a 60W filament lamp.

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