Advice on compliance with regulations for new kitchen and general wiring question

Hi all, a couple of things:

1. We are looking at getting a new kitchen - live in old house with COB/brick/thatch construction for info. The kitchen fitter sent his electrician a pic of the current Consumer Unit which is a Wylex split load RCD, plastic case and he wants to replace it. The house wiring contains a mix of old and new wiring colours, but I had an EICR about a year ago to comply with my insurance requirements and it passed OK. Is there any good reason for requiring a change? He said something, via the kitchen fitter, along the lines of conforming with current regulations back to the fuse box. Is this really the case as I didn't think so from what I've read? I'm a chartered engineer, but only work on low voltage stuff so need to check what the situation is with people familiar with the regulations working on this day in, day out before I start querying this if it goes ahead.

2. One of the circuits has a 10A MCB feeding a junction box just below the CU which feeds through to some outside lights (old halogens no longer working via armoured cable outside) and a 13a socket just below the CU. The location of socket means it's really just used to plug in the hoover. Where does this stand with regard to the regulations? i.e. a 10A limited MCB feeding a 13A socket and outside lights? For info, I am intending to replace the old halogens with newer LED types so hardly any current there, but looking more closely at it I came to notice this. 

Thanks, James.

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  • Thanks for the clarification to all. 

    gkenyon, my apologies if I didn't make myself clear, I was addressing your comment "Hopefully the DNO moved it to TN-C-S, and bonding was upgraded? There are a lot of DIY "TN-S" or "TN-C-S" conversions that we see posted on the Forum all the time ?" when I said about a homebrew solution. Secondly, I'm just trying to make sure I keep a track on costs and not drift into unnecessary work, but I appreciate everyone's advice and know what's needed now as it will require changes to fixed wiring.

    Thanks, James.

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  • Thanks for the clarification to all. 

    gkenyon, my apologies if I didn't make myself clear, I was addressing your comment "Hopefully the DNO moved it to TN-C-S, and bonding was upgraded? There are a lot of DIY "TN-S" or "TN-C-S" conversions that we see posted on the Forum all the time ?" when I said about a homebrew solution. Secondly, I'm just trying to make sure I keep a track on costs and not drift into unnecessary work, but I appreciate everyone's advice and know what's needed now as it will require changes to fixed wiring.

    Thanks, James.

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