Like it or Not. The outdoor CU/DB is here to stay.

In the recent years there has been a massive increase in the use of outdoor switchgear for the domestic dwelling (PV, EV, Heat Pumps etc).  They are mainly metal but this then brings in the question of RCD protection for the enclosure itself and the characteristics of the supply cable to the CU/DB.


EG Is it OK for the CU to be fed from Henly Block (Other Brands are available) with only the protection offered by ( BS 1361 ) the main cut out fuse?  The standardized BS 1361 breaking capacity of these fuse-links is 33kA at 0.3p.f. However to cater for increasing fault levels all Lawson house service cut-out fuse-links have been ASTA tested to 80kA at 0.15 p.f.

A few suggestions

Height from floor and positioning.  IE can a child touch it, if so should the metal enclosure go inside a plastic or GRP enclosure?  GRP being preferred.

A breather plug/vent

A sticker on the front Stating.....All Penetrations to Enter from Below

A sticker on the front Stating.....IP rating, IK rating for the enclosure and Pollution Degree rating for the breakers inside if it is sold as a kit.

Pollution degree (IEC 60664-1)

Pollution degree    rough environment
1    In a clean environment or enclosed equipment
2    most common environment
3    Harsh environments such as factories
4    Outdoors where it is mainly exposed to the elements

As always please be polite and respectful in this purely academic debate.




Come on everybody let’s help inspire the future.

Parents
  • These enclosures are good.

    As you can see, they are sold for EV points, but they also make them in white, and partially populated.

  • Looking at the datasheet it states

    IP65 External then further down it states you can drill the top or the bottom. 

    In my engineering judjement if you drill the top of the enclosure moisture will always get in.  It also lacks a breather vent/drain. 

  • IP65 External then further down it states you can drill the top or the bottom. 

    Even if you don't drill it, if you install it below about 300 mm from the ground, you will almost certainly get internal condensation ... and this can happen even if installed higher than 300 mm from the ground under certain conditions such as sudden temperature or humidity change you might see when jet-washer spray is close to the device. IP65, IP66 or IP67 alone is not sufficient to prevent condensation when jet washing ... anti-condensation heaters and/or suitably IP rated 'drain plugs' are necessary.

  • I totally agree that for outdoor enclosures a drain plugs should be mandatory

  • I totally agree that for outdoor enclosures a drain plugs should be mandatory

    "Drill a hole" may be OK for IP43, IP44 or in certain cases, IP45, but there are, as I'm sure a lot of readers will be aware, anti-condensation drain plugs that go up to IP68 (if appropriately installed) !!!

  • May I add that upon inquiry, it was found that none of the usual wholesalers were familiar with or had stocked this particular plug.

  • In my engineering judjement if you drill the top of the enclosure moisture will always get in.  It also lacks a breather vent/drain. 

    If the enclosure is sealed, it does not need a drain. However, I accept that moisture might track inside a conduit.

    If you attach a cable or conduit to the top of an enclosure which is exposed to the elements, are you not duty-bound to ensure that it is water-tight?

Reply
  • In my engineering judjement if you drill the top of the enclosure moisture will always get in.  It also lacks a breather vent/drain. 

    If the enclosure is sealed, it does not need a drain. However, I accept that moisture might track inside a conduit.

    If you attach a cable or conduit to the top of an enclosure which is exposed to the elements, are you not duty-bound to ensure that it is water-tight?

Children
  • If the enclosure is sealed, it does not need a drain. However, I accept that moisture might track inside a conduit.

    Not true. Moisture is always in the air that's sealed in a gas-tight enclosure, which can condense if the temperature changes quickly outside the enclosure. In addition, there are ways that moisture can enter in vapour/gaseous form in enclosures that are only sealed against water but not gas.

  • If the enclosure is sealed, it does not need a drain

    I disagree with this.

    If the enclosure is outside in the UK then moisture will form internally due to the warming and cooling cycles.  When the air inside the enclosure hits the Due Point then it will condensate on the inside of the enclosure.

  • only sealed against water but not gas

    Then I would say that the enclosure is not sealed.

    Of course, any enclosure with a door is not sealed either when it is opened.

  • And about the only thing sealed by that definition, is a potted joint, lids with O rings gaskets and so on do not hold against pressure unless piston sealed or clamped to a reference profile at close intervals, and all glands and screw heads need dowty washers which on electrical stuff they never have...

    In reality it always all leaks, slowly . And don't use stranded wire through compression glands and expect a seal either - air will pull along it between the strands once you get over a few inches water gauge of pressure, and thermal variations over a day/night in the UK for a truly closed  box in the sun can easily be a few hundred cm of water gauge  (a few PSI) between inside and outside.
    Mike

  • Then, I think that we agree that ordinary electrical gear is not sealed in the precise sense of the meaning.

    Even submarines are not necessarily as sealed as you might think. Water can collect in the bilges and be pumped out as with any other ship.

    I have a number of MK switches in my outbuildings at the bottom of (galvanized) conduit drops. All have a hole in the bottom corner, but they also all contain a few corpses of wee beasties.