Best practice for wiring recessed downlighter

I'm looking to modernise a house with old (1950s) wiring.  The original wiring is in conduit, with no separate earth conductor, but amazingly still functions! 

In practical terms, I think the best thing to do is to remove the conduit - it's too small to accommodate cable and its earth continuity is poor - and start again.
There has been some previous attempt at partial re-wiring; TW&E cables are forced into old conduits; this looks very shoddy and compromises cable ratings.

In terms of lighting circuits, the existing arrangement of looping via ceiling roses won't work, since it's intended to install modern recessed downlighters.

I want to avoid having any cable joins or terminal blocks in locations which will be inaccessible.  All terminals need to be accessible for future inspection and test.
(Am happy to pull out a recessed downlighter to check connections on the top).

I am proposing to run a single cable from the consumer unit to a connection box.  From there, a cable for each lighting circuit would run to a switch and then on to the lights.  The junction box would be accessible (with tools).  There would be two such junction boxes, one for each floor, and each would have maybe four or five lighting circuits.

When I mentioned this to a friend (who once worked as an electrician) he asked me if that was allowed and my response was that I can't see where this would be prohibited.  It may be unusual, but I reckon as long as the protection is appropriate there's nothing wrong with this approach.

This leads to a second issue.  It seems that when interconnecting recessed downlighters, some might just run the cable between them on the ceiling, but I think this is poor practice and that the cable needs to be clipped to a joist or run in a conduit along a joist.  Is there a good solution for this that minimises the need to lift floorboards?

Thanks!

  • Well

    wiring lights at a central joint box is one of several common approaches These days the old ashley boxes have given way to things full of wago connectors.

    The other easy way is slimline boxes behind each downlighter, and as much as possible loop through switch, rather than loop though rose - thog this needs deeper back boxes at the switch, it makes inspection easy.

    Unless you expect the ceiling to collapse laying a wire over plasterboard is pretty standard - its a lot safer against damage from screws and nails if its not rigidly held, as anything poked through the ceiling can then shove it to one side. Clips only at access points if at all above a fixed celiing, A suspended ceiling on grid wires with loose panels is a different matter and here best practice puts cables in a basket or tray above the ceiling so that if can be lifted for maintainence.

    Cables that could collapse in a fire and impede an exit need to be secured, but again, if they can only fall after the ceiling, which also obstructs an exit, the point becomes moot.

    What else is being done at the same time as the lights ? you may as well do the lot.

    Note you should have RCD or RCBO cover for ,most lighting circuits these days, to be up to current regs.

    Mike

  • Cheers Mike

    That's a good point about not fixing cables generally, but only at access points.  That will make life much easier since I have complete access to under the first floor from the eves and can pull in cables without lifting boards, other than as needed to remove old conduit where it's in the way.

    Planning to fit a new consumer unit with RCBOs - just waiting for installation of a customer's isolator (and new 'smart' meter that might actually be capable of communicating).

    I'll be rewiring the sockets too, but that's easier since the architect has specified a services gap between insulation at the oxters and plasterboard finish.

    I need to get to grips with the specification of wago connectors.

    Thanks!

  • https://www.wago.com/gb/electrical-interconnections/discover-installation-terminal-blocks-and-connectors

    is a good intro. There are basically two versions the finger trap type where you poke the end of the wire in and it gets trapped by a spring flap, that only suit  solid core, and cannot be re-used (officially) and the 'lever' kind that are  designed for solid or stranded core, where lifting te plastic twagger opens the springs and allows the wire in, Both kinds are very vibration proof and can be used in fairly inaccessible places, as they don't have screws that can come loose.

    I first came across them in wiring in  some German made generators about 20 years ago, and while at the time I was a bit skeptical, I am now a convert - though in the meantime there have been several improved designs, design '221' in particular is very nice for general use and flex to solid transitions, I keep a few with the test meter for making temporary connections for insulation tests and so on, ~(www.youtube.com/watch

    There are some cheap knock offs that are not quite as good, and some truly terrible ones that are dangerously cheap on Ebay so be a bit circumspect.

    You can impress folks by pointing out that the company is German, and the correct pronunciation is "Vaar-go" not 'way-go' but nearly all UK sparks of non Germanic descent call them the latter.

    There are a few pics on-line of folk trying to break them, JW has done a few more scientific tests and put them online

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bP0qHyVAymU  They are pretty tough,  and last for ever if you stay more  or less withing the makers recommended ratings...

    Mike

  • I think the solution proposed is good. Where different circuits come out of the junction box labelling each one will make things easier for the next person. Also make sure the junction boxes can be found quite easily.

    If you need junction boxes above the down lights, I personally like the quick wire ones. 

    Sounds like you may not be a registered electrician. It's worth being aware that significant electrical work in a home needs to be notified to building control. This can only be self certified by registered electricians. Anyone else would need the work to be checked and approved by building control.

  • The 1-big-joint-box approach isn't that unusual - I've done just that in my own home - although with a slight modification which is easy as all the cables come back to a single point. That  is to interleave adjacent rooms onto different circuits - e.g. hall and upstairs bedrooms on one circuit, downstairs rooms and upstairs landing on the other - that way if one circuit fails and you loose light in a room, you still have light through the doorway.

       - Andy.

  • The original wiring is in conduit, with no separate earth conductor, but amazingly still functions!

    I have found remnants of electrical conduit (and gas pipes) under my floor boards. I don't see why it should not still function, but the insulation of the cable (rubber ± cloth) may be past its best. If you disturb it, it may flake away.

    but I think this is poor practice and that the cable needs to be clipped to a joist or run in a conduit along a joist

    Yes, clipped in some way is good workmanship. What should be avoided is the risk of premature collapse - the hazard is that fire fighters can get tangled in the cables.

  • If you loop the mains through each switches instead of going to a junction box you won't have any 'hidden' joints. All connections are in the switch boxes. You will only have 3 extra cores at each switch. Just fit 25mm switch boxes.  This is a pretty standard arrangement these days as it makes fitting light fittings with no space much easier as well.

    Gary