8 foot flurescent lamp

Hi guys and girls firstly to days my birthday I've got to 58 years old never thought ide make it especially with all the health issues I've had over recent times any way now to be serious can someone please show me the wiring diagrame for an 8 foot flurescent light single tube I'm curiouse how it's wired  especially the capacitor position I know they have one in series but not sure if it's exact circuit position thanks in advance x

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  • A number of circuits existed for 8 foot fluorescent lamps.

    The simplest was a series choke with a glow starter across the lamp. Any capacitor was simply to improve the power factor and played no part in lamp operation.

    Note that the glow starter had to be a special type sold for 8 foot lamps. A universal starter wont work. This circuit needs 240 volt mains for reliable operation and tends to be unreliable on European 220 volt mains.

    The second type was known a "semi resonant start" this used a capacitor in series with one winding of the ballast. This capacitor was a vital part of the lamp circuit, if the capacitor reduced in value as it aged then starting became unreliable and light output was reduced. No starter was needed. Worked on 220 volt mains.

    A third type used a step up transformer, with a high reactance so as to limit the current. Simple and reliable, works even on 100/110/120/127 volt mains. Common in countries that use these voltages. Any capacitor was simply for power factor correction and played no part in lamp operation.

    Also existing were electronic ballasts, never much used in the UK but used overseas.

    I have seen very old circuits that used a 4 pin thermal starter, the heater connections were in series with the choke, and the starting contacts connected across the lamp, as with glow starter. Thermal starters are now extinct.  They worked on DC mains, but only for the shorter lamps, not for 8 foot  lamps unless a 300 volt+ supply was available.

Reply
  • A number of circuits existed for 8 foot fluorescent lamps.

    The simplest was a series choke with a glow starter across the lamp. Any capacitor was simply to improve the power factor and played no part in lamp operation.

    Note that the glow starter had to be a special type sold for 8 foot lamps. A universal starter wont work. This circuit needs 240 volt mains for reliable operation and tends to be unreliable on European 220 volt mains.

    The second type was known a "semi resonant start" this used a capacitor in series with one winding of the ballast. This capacitor was a vital part of the lamp circuit, if the capacitor reduced in value as it aged then starting became unreliable and light output was reduced. No starter was needed. Worked on 220 volt mains.

    A third type used a step up transformer, with a high reactance so as to limit the current. Simple and reliable, works even on 100/110/120/127 volt mains. Common in countries that use these voltages. Any capacitor was simply for power factor correction and played no part in lamp operation.

    Also existing were electronic ballasts, never much used in the UK but used overseas.

    I have seen very old circuits that used a 4 pin thermal starter, the heater connections were in series with the choke, and the starting contacts connected across the lamp, as with glow starter. Thermal starters are now extinct.  They worked on DC mains, but only for the shorter lamps, not for 8 foot  lamps unless a 300 volt+ supply was available.

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