This discussion has been locked.
You can no longer post new replies to this discussion. If you have a question you can start a new discussion

Unconventional lighting project.

Good evening all,

A friend has given me a beast of a thermonic valve, a half-wave rectifier, RG4-3000, to turn into some sort of table lamp.

Access appears to be somewhat tricky as i'd need to remove the glass envelope. I remember removing the envelope of a smaller glass tube pentode when I was 15-16 years of age to produce a scaled technical drawing, but for the life of me I can't remember whether or not I broke the glass asm I never bothered to replace it..

My question is, has anybody attempted anything similar and how did they remove the glass envelope in tact so that it could be attached at a later time?

Legh

regards to all and thanks for reading

Parents
  • seems a shame to kill it really - they are very much a thing of their time.

    I'd consider putting LED "filaments" in there and hiding a bridge rect and series cap in a hardwood box beneath it - do you have the socket for it ?
    this sort of thing    - depending on length the best ones for a mains lamp are the one with  all the LEDs in series - those are  typically 40-60V each, but need to be current limited to perhaps 10mA peak per LED  as they have almost no cooling,


    For battery use ones with all LEDS in parallel ~3V and in a hybind series parallel layout for 12V or so are also made. Again, current limiting, and polarity is important....

    you can make suspension loops from insulated wire between the anode caps perhaps?
Reply
  • seems a shame to kill it really - they are very much a thing of their time.

    I'd consider putting LED "filaments" in there and hiding a bridge rect and series cap in a hardwood box beneath it - do you have the socket for it ?
    this sort of thing    - depending on length the best ones for a mains lamp are the one with  all the LEDs in series - those are  typically 40-60V each, but need to be current limited to perhaps 10mA peak per LED  as they have almost no cooling,


    For battery use ones with all LEDS in parallel ~3V and in a hybind series parallel layout for 12V or so are also made. Again, current limiting, and polarity is important....

    you can make suspension loops from insulated wire between the anode caps perhaps?
Children
No Data