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Chemical Fixings / Resin Anchor for horizontal holes

AncientMariner

The bottom "hinge hook" of the type shown below has become loose in one of our driveway block-work gate posts, causing the hinge to move each time the gate is opened/closed. What I propose doing is to remove the gate and the loose "hinge hook" and re-secure by using a Chemical Fixing/Resin Anchor after blowing the debris and dust out of the hole.  I did similar on another gatepost about 20 years ago and other than the resin oozing out when fitting, it proved to be the best option rather than rebuilding the post.

My problem is knowing which resin to buy. I have both a Screwfix and a Toolstation 5 minutes away and they both sell quite a selection.  What I want is one which is sufficiently viscous so that it does not all run out between injection and inserting the spikey end of the "hinge hook" and it starting to go off.  Any experience here of which would be my best bet?

Many thanks

Clive

Clive

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    The trade off is viscosity,  a runny mix favours smaller gaps and a stiffer one is less likely to end on the floor. Is the concrete cracked ?.  At work we tend to use the two part stuff that mixes in the nozzles that look rather like the stripey toothpaste but in reverse - this does not need air or moisture to set and can be shot into the back of the hole more easily than anything that  needs to be poured or spooned in. Traditionally it would be an epoxy and peroxide hardener as this has the highest ultimate tensile strength, but if a bit more flex is needed then there are styrene or polyester based resins are almost as strong, but with better shock resistance.

    I suspect it does not matter as much as you may fear. The key thing is that the spike is clean and offers something a bit bumpy to 'key' to, and that the hole is free of loose material - the best adhesive is wasted sticking to sand. Any where you do not want the resin to stick, mask off or brush with grease/vaseline.

    Mike.

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  • 0

    The trade off is viscosity,  a runny mix favours smaller gaps and a stiffer one is less likely to end on the floor. Is the concrete cracked ?.  At work we tend to use the two part stuff that mixes in the nozzles that look rather like the stripey toothpaste but in reverse - this does not need air or moisture to set and can be shot into the back of the hole more easily than anything that  needs to be poured or spooned in. Traditionally it would be an epoxy and peroxide hardener as this has the highest ultimate tensile strength, but if a bit more flex is needed then there are styrene or polyester based resins are almost as strong, but with better shock resistance.

    I suspect it does not matter as much as you may fear. The key thing is that the spike is clean and offers something a bit bumpy to 'key' to, and that the hole is free of loose material - the best adhesive is wasted sticking to sand. Any where you do not want the resin to stick, mask off or brush with grease/vaseline.

    Mike.

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