The trade off is viscosity,  a runny mix favours smaller gaps and a stiffer one is less likely to end on the floor. Is the concrete cracked ?.  At work we tend to use the two part stuff that mixes in the nozzles that look rather like the stripey toothpaste but in reverse - this does not need air or moisture to set and can be shot into the back of the hole more easily than anything that  needs to be poured or spooned in. Traditionally it would be an epoxy and peroxide hardener as this has the highest ultimate tensile strength, but if a bit more flex is needed then there are styrene or polyester based resins are almost as strong, but with better shock resistance.

I suspect it does not matter as much as you may fear. The key thing is that the spike is clean and offers something a bit bumpy to 'key' to, and that the hole is free of loose material - the best adhesive is wasted sticking to sand. Any where you do not want the resin to stick, mask off or brush with grease/vaseline.

Mike.

These used to be the preferred choice, although I have not used any lately.

shop4fasteners.co.uk/.../glass-hammer-in-capsules.html

You will need an application tool

www.twwholesale.co.uk/footprint-2-5lb-heavy-duty-hardened-steel-face-hickory-handle-club-lump-hammer.html

Another option might be to fabricate a little plastic or cardboard collar that could fit on the shaft of the hinge and be pushed back against the wall to restrain the resin while it sets - perhaps lined with a bit of soft foam in the wall surface is uneven.

Also I'd take care with the shape of the hole - if it's sort of conical with the mouth wider than the deep end, it's much more likely to come loose regardless of how hard the resin is - more wedge shape - wider as it gets deeper - is likely to last much longer,

   - Andy,

Hi Clive,

I've recently been using Rawlplug R Kem from Screwfix to fasten timber to vertical block walls. It doesn't ooze out but it will let the studs droop so I held them in position with matchsticks until it cured.

Would epoxy putty work?  That comes in sticks and is pretty solid (rather like real putty).  That said, I have only ever seen it sold in single sticks, and you might need more than one.

It's essentially epoxy resin, but in a harder form.  You knead the stick in order to mix the ingredients.

Araldite?

For a block work pillar would you be better with the square plate type hinge pin mount?

For fixings with no vertical load, I have found polyurethane glue from Gorilla to be excellent. It is cheaper than the 2 pack fixings and sticks very well to steel galvanised or not) and concrete etc, and is very strong. You just cover the spike, spray a little water into the hole and push in. It expands as it sets so fills any gaps. A small bottle is only a few quid. The glass and 2 packs are good for vertical loads, but I have not tested the Gorilla, rock bolting not really being useful to me!

Thanks Grumpy.

We did the job yesterday, the first dry day since I bought a tube of Rawlplug R-KEM II  They are quite heavy bi-fold gates with the hinges set at 135° to the faces of the block built pillars. The hinge that was moving each time the gate passed through 135° was a bottom one, so no pulling out force involved.

Once I had got the old hinge out and cleaned up, I ran a 25mm masonry drill into the old hole and then blew out the debris with compressed air. 

Looking into end of the R-KEM II tube after removing the cap, I could see that the bags of the 2-part mix were sealed with a wire ring. No mention of this on the instructions on the tube. Reading the reviews on Screwfix, it appeared that the intention was that the ring would come off the bags during the first squeeze. Some had removed the ring with pliers first. So, decision time!  I removed the ring, I was also wondering where it would otherwise go - blocking the mixing nozzle knowing my luck...

I think I made a good choice, since the mixed resin assumed a constant colour after the first inch, so I did not have to waste too much. Even without the metal ring to block anything, it was quite an effort to squeeze the resin out. To make it a bit easier, after about half-way, I cut a couple of inches off the plain section of the nozzle. I used about 3/4 of the tube. With the temperature around 10 deg C I had, according to the instructions, 15 minutes 'processing time' and 1.5 hours 'curing time'.

My wife had masked off around the hole, plus cardboard beneath in readiness, but the resin was not too runny and once the hinge was in place at the correct depth, I was able to smooth off where some of the mortar had previously fallen off with the hinge movement. (not with a licked finger! I used a disposable wooden fork as supplied with some salads.

A couple of hours or so later, on went the gate and job done!

R-KEM II sets hard, no hint of flexibility. Interestingly, I can this afternoon easily take the cap off the tube. What I can see inside is not solid hard remains, so I may get the chance to use the remaining 1/4 tube with the second mixing nozzle that is supplied.

Clive