Smart switch alexa is does it count

If you run a normal switch then add Alexa bulb say at some point someone will turn off the switch and the item will over time deprogramme. Therefore you could short back of switch giving constant power and solving problem but is that within the regs?


Call me old, but I can't see the application for a rarely used lamp and come to think of it, I can't see the need for it on a frequently used lamp either!


If you haven't control over the humans that interfere with your switch, perhaps some old fashioned discipline or quite simply, put some sticky tape over the switch!


At least someone changing the lamp should realise that the switch has been temporarily disabled rather than the permanent method you suggest?


Regards


BOD

Ignoring the 'why?'

As far as the regs, if you do control a light by electronic means, and it could be Alexa, or  it could be a PIR or an electronic dimmer, this is only a functional switch, and does not count as a safe means of isolation for working on the system (unless there is a large mechanical contact, means to lock off etc). You can have as many functional switches in series or parallel as you like to make a really complex multi-point control, but somewhere up front of all that, there must be a normal isolator as well (though in a simple system that may be the  MCB at the consumer unit.).

Frankly, I cannot see a problem with getting off one's backside and operating a normal switch manually.


That is assuming that one can get off one's backside so I suppose that the device could be a useful aid for those who are severely disabled. However, it would not be a suitable means of isolation or emergency switching - Table 537.4


ETA: Mike beat me to it as I was fumbling through the BBB to find the reference. ?

I can't recall mentioning isolation. What is applicable is the definition of mechanical maintenance and 537.3.2 (in BYB as my BBB is not to hand!).


Regards


BOD

Fit a simple key operated switch of the type used for testing emergency lights. 


Andy Betteridge.

ok so the situation is I've installed an LED strip light in a customers dining room so they can change lighting effects etc and it looks nice. but it is wired through a normal switch so functional switching and isolation is by the MCB so don't want anything big and ugly. the problem is it gets switched off with the downlights all the time and is only activated occasionally so was just wondering can i effectively take the normal switch out of the circuit but still be within the regs

I admit to using a smart switch to disconnect the AC supply to my bedroom tv. (I'm one of those who can't stand the bright standby light at night). When I wish to switch it off, I'm warm and comfy. So 'ok google, turn off the bedroom tv' has advantages over 'getting off my backside'. But I'd never rely on it for isolation. The switch on the socket does that.


In response to the OP... ALWAYS include a manually operated and preferably lockable switch. (a fused spur where you can remove the fuse works unless you're plagued with malicious pixies).


Many of these smart switches (most? all?) are microprocessor controlled, and the relay or triac is simply driven by a logic output. Micros can crash and produce spurious data on their outputs. Annoying if it's your pc/smartphone, potentially deadly if it's an output controlling an AC supply you're currently holding on to.

Fit a grid switch with a rocker switch for the down lights and a key switch for the Alexa controlled light. 


With a choice of face plates, why won't it will look respectable?


Andy Betteridge

What is applicable is the definition of mechanical maintenance

Agreed - especially as 'replacement, refurbishment or cleaning of lamps' is still part of the definition of mechanical maintenance. However the requirements for switching off for mechanical maintenance are, in the 18th, tantamount to complete isolation - so that conventional light switches no longer comply with the requirements - so we're probably back to using the MCB (on TN systems) or main switch/RCCB (on TT) anyway.


  - Andy.

(a fused spur where you can remove the fuse works unless you're plagued with malicious pixies).


I've yet to see a fused spur that doesn't accept a padlock.


Regards


BOD