Help with installation / diagram

Well that is a cabinet and a half certainly, double pole 3 phase bus-bar - very German, but in this case Flemish I presume !

To meet UK regs it ought to be in a metal cabinet when it is all over.


OK, so you are stuck with the windows and no money back, if it is  a case of you having a play, there is little to lose here in trying to make some sense of it with some caveats about electrical safety and not cracking the glass,

I suggest as the paperwork is so much cobblers, fist step  if you have a meter and it is your own time, you should test the resistances of the panels, and see if any are actually matching the paperwork, or indeed if any of it is making  any sense at all.  I think I'd expect the watts per square metre of glass too be more or less constant for all the windows.


Reading around, it seems is more common to have triple glazed and the heater on the un touchable side of the inner pane, for room heat or the outer pane for de-icing, which is not relevant here. If they are double glazed, really you have a heater with a single glazed window behind it.

It also seems to be common in other companies to panelize the printing of the heating elements onto the glass into squares or rectangles of constant voltage - it seems these guys missed rather more than one trick.

Now power transformers that give 230V, 110V or 55-0 55V (being a centre tapped 110V ) are the more common voltages readily available, so if things can be persuaded into groups that match those voltages it may be worth a punt for a bit more.

Can you explain a bit more about the sensors though ? is this testing the temperature of the glass - I'd imagine that needs to be limited, or if it cannot be measured,  then heating rates kept very low. Electric underfloor heating does similar, where the floor slab temperature is monitored as well as the air in the room.

Sensors reading gibberish is not encouraging.


 

Well that is a cabinet and a half certainly, double pole 3 phase bus-bar - very German, but in this case Flemish I presume !

To meet UK regs it ought to be in a metal cabinet when it is all over.


OK, so you are stuck with the windows and no money back, if it is  a case of you having a play, there is little to lose here in trying to make some sense of it with some caveats about electrical safety and not cracking the glass,

I suggest as the paperwork is so much cobblers, fist step  if you have a meter and it is your own time, you should test the resistances of the panels, and see if any are actually matching the paperwork, or indeed if any of it is making  any sense at all.  I think I'd expect the watts per square metre of glass too be more or less constant for all the windows.


Reading around, it seems is more common to have triple glazed and the heater on the un touchable side of the inner pane, for room heat or the outer pane for de-icing, which is not relevant here. If they are double glazed, really you have a heater with a single glazed window behind it.

It also seems to be common in other companies to panelize the printing of the heating elements onto the glass into squares or rectangles of constant voltage - it seems these guys missed rather more than one trick.

Now power transformers that give 230V, 110V or 55-0 55V (being a centre tapped 110V ) are the more common voltages readily available, so if things can be persuaded into groups that match those voltages it may be worth a punt for a bit more.

Can you explain a bit more about the sensors though ? is this testing the temperature of the glass - I'd imagine that needs to be limited, or if it cannot be measured,  then heating rates kept very low. Electric underfloor heating does similar, where the floor slab temperature is monitored as well as the air in the room.

Sensors reading gibberish is not encouraging.