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Help with installation / diagram

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hi,


I am after some help with a heated windows installation / diagram - grateful for any input.

Unfortunately, the company supplying the installion went bust and I have been left with a system that doesn't  work (incorrectly designed).

We had a local electrician do the first fix wiring based on the diagrams but he says what has been sent won't work in it's current state and he doesn't have the relevant expertise to adjust it.

We live in a rural area and electricians are not that common especially for something as complex as this.

Rather than post up the diagrams and go into too much detail initially, I just wanted to know if this is a place to ask for advice and if not could anyone point me in the right direction. e.g contact details for an electrical engineer.


Thanks.
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  • 0

    Back to the heat loss Andy. You are right about possible new build with maximum insulation, but these are few and far between, it is impossible with timber frame (at least at reasonable cost) because the timber is much worse than the insulation between, and building cavity walls with large cavities has structural issues with the wall ties and the window openings (because these are less well insulated).



    Ways and means are being developed - "teplo" ties have been used for masonry walls with cavities containing up to 300mm of mineral fibre insulation - and there are a number of techniques for reducing the cold bridging of the timbers in timber frame construction - for example some use timber I-beams rather solid timber for the studs (so only a few mm of ply forms the bridge) - others place a continuous layer of insulation over the outside of the frame which is then rendered over. Keeping the U value of windows below 0.8 (triple glazing and thermally broken frames) normally prevents any issues with condensation on or around windows. Yes a lot of this is rather new to traditional builders, and there's a lot of detailing that needs to be got right if a lot of the hard work isn't to be undermined - but it is doable and is happening. If you look at the self build market this sort of thing has been common if not quite mainstream for at least the last 10 years.

     

    at such latitude because of the low sun angle and shorter less sunny days



    Actually summer days get longer as you go north - it's only the winter days that are shorter.


       - Andy.
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  • 0

    Back to the heat loss Andy. You are right about possible new build with maximum insulation, but these are few and far between, it is impossible with timber frame (at least at reasonable cost) because the timber is much worse than the insulation between, and building cavity walls with large cavities has structural issues with the wall ties and the window openings (because these are less well insulated).



    Ways and means are being developed - "teplo" ties have been used for masonry walls with cavities containing up to 300mm of mineral fibre insulation - and there are a number of techniques for reducing the cold bridging of the timbers in timber frame construction - for example some use timber I-beams rather solid timber for the studs (so only a few mm of ply forms the bridge) - others place a continuous layer of insulation over the outside of the frame which is then rendered over. Keeping the U value of windows below 0.8 (triple glazing and thermally broken frames) normally prevents any issues with condensation on or around windows. Yes a lot of this is rather new to traditional builders, and there's a lot of detailing that needs to be got right if a lot of the hard work isn't to be undermined - but it is doable and is happening. If you look at the self build market this sort of thing has been common if not quite mainstream for at least the last 10 years.

     

    at such latitude because of the low sun angle and shorter less sunny days



    Actually summer days get longer as you go north - it's only the winter days that are shorter.


       - Andy.
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