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Help with installation / diagram

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hi,


I am after some help with a heated windows installation / diagram - grateful for any input.

Unfortunately, the company supplying the installion went bust and I have been left with a system that doesn't  work (incorrectly designed).

We had a local electrician do the first fix wiring based on the diagrams but he says what has been sent won't work in it's current state and he doesn't have the relevant expertise to adjust it.

We live in a rural area and electricians are not that common especially for something as complex as this.

Rather than post up the diagrams and go into too much detail initially, I just wanted to know if this is a place to ask for advice and if not could anyone point me in the right direction. e.g contact details for an electrical engineer.


Thanks.
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  • 0
    Well, if, and only if, the groups are such that the currents in any one series chain are all identical, and also then the voltages in that chain do add up to 220-260 ish then yes it makes a lot more sense to omit the transformers.


    You will still need to get a 110V transformer, but now only the one, and at a far more modest rating. (110V 5A would be about 10kg for double wound, half that for an auto transformer where the output is not isolated from the input )


    Given the back story I do not exactly have a good feeling about it I'll be honest, but it does explain  what has been supplied so far and it has the feel of 'just maybe' .

    Perhaps nonsensically If these had been the first drawings you posted, I'd be happier....



    not out of the woods but the fog is lifting.




    Some niggles remain.


    When it all comes on, It is still a big load - if the underfloor heating is electrical it may well be either/ or, not both at once (or a supply upgrade)


    Also is there anything at the windows that needs earthing ? Two core flex is OK on things that do not need an earth, but NOT otherwise, and is not really right for fixed wiring, except as an appliance flex.


    And another hurdle, do you have info for the thermostatic controller - does it really need a PT100 ? I still find that a bit of a remarkable choice, but maybe if it is an industrial module inside that has been re-purposed .


    For now I'd see how practical it might be  to wire into those 240v groups and leave the 110V set unconnected.

    Before that I'd take the Volts and amps table out of the first group  of files you posted, and check that the numbers do add up in the new series config.

    It is safer if it errs on the side of a total chain voltage that is a bit high so the current is a bit lower.



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  • 0
    Well, if, and only if, the groups are such that the currents in any one series chain are all identical, and also then the voltages in that chain do add up to 220-260 ish then yes it makes a lot more sense to omit the transformers.


    You will still need to get a 110V transformer, but now only the one, and at a far more modest rating. (110V 5A would be about 10kg for double wound, half that for an auto transformer where the output is not isolated from the input )


    Given the back story I do not exactly have a good feeling about it I'll be honest, but it does explain  what has been supplied so far and it has the feel of 'just maybe' .

    Perhaps nonsensically If these had been the first drawings you posted, I'd be happier....



    not out of the woods but the fog is lifting.




    Some niggles remain.


    When it all comes on, It is still a big load - if the underfloor heating is electrical it may well be either/ or, not both at once (or a supply upgrade)


    Also is there anything at the windows that needs earthing ? Two core flex is OK on things that do not need an earth, but NOT otherwise, and is not really right for fixed wiring, except as an appliance flex.


    And another hurdle, do you have info for the thermostatic controller - does it really need a PT100 ? I still find that a bit of a remarkable choice, but maybe if it is an industrial module inside that has been re-purposed .


    For now I'd see how practical it might be  to wire into those 240v groups and leave the 110V set unconnected.

    Before that I'd take the Volts and amps table out of the first group  of files you posted, and check that the numbers do add up in the new series config.

    It is safer if it errs on the side of a total chain voltage that is a bit high so the current is a bit lower.



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