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Help with installation / diagram

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hi,


I am after some help with a heated windows installation / diagram - grateful for any input.

Unfortunately, the company supplying the installion went bust and I have been left with a system that doesn't  work (incorrectly designed).

We had a local electrician do the first fix wiring based on the diagrams but he says what has been sent won't work in it's current state and he doesn't have the relevant expertise to adjust it.

We live in a rural area and electricians are not that common especially for something as complex as this.

Rather than post up the diagrams and go into too much detail initially, I just wanted to know if this is a place to ask for advice and if not could anyone point me in the right direction. e.g contact details for an electrical engineer.


Thanks.
Parents
  • OK,  copying some numbers from that first attachment,

    R2   25.2 ohms 3.5Amax 


    R15  25.1 ohms  3.6A max,


    R16  21,5ohms 3.5A  max


    Total resistance is then  71.8 ohms.
     (please double check that and measure the actual total resistance of the chain before energising anything at all)


    230v across that combined resistance will give  230 /  71.8 = 3.2 A so it will run a little cooler than the absolute max rating, but yes it will  not overload anything, should be as safe or dangerous as the maker's original single phase proposal.


    Is there no controller supplied at all ? If so then anything that can key mains on and off , either the elements direct or via the SSR will do, but I suspect you are supposed to have  two sensors, both to cut off at a preset temperature, one for room temp and a 'save the glass' one set to cut off at however hot the glass is supposed safely to get on whichever panel in the chain gets hottest.

    If testing manually,  I might look for a stick-on thermometer just to see how hot the glass gets. I'd expect the glass to have a thermal time constant of no more than a few minutes to stabilise - while the room could take some hours.


Reply
  • OK,  copying some numbers from that first attachment,

    R2   25.2 ohms 3.5Amax 


    R15  25.1 ohms  3.6A max,


    R16  21,5ohms 3.5A  max


    Total resistance is then  71.8 ohms.
     (please double check that and measure the actual total resistance of the chain before energising anything at all)


    230v across that combined resistance will give  230 /  71.8 = 3.2 A so it will run a little cooler than the absolute max rating, but yes it will  not overload anything, should be as safe or dangerous as the maker's original single phase proposal.


    Is there no controller supplied at all ? If so then anything that can key mains on and off , either the elements direct or via the SSR will do, but I suspect you are supposed to have  two sensors, both to cut off at a preset temperature, one for room temp and a 'save the glass' one set to cut off at however hot the glass is supposed safely to get on whichever panel in the chain gets hottest.

    If testing manually,  I might look for a stick-on thermometer just to see how hot the glass gets. I'd expect the glass to have a thermal time constant of no more than a few minutes to stabilise - while the room could take some hours.


Children
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