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Immersion heater - economy 7 timer wiring

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hello,


I have a honeywell st6400c controller and an immersion heater. 

My heater has 2 switches, off and on peak. My concern is that the heating works only with both switches on. Even if its set to trigger at off peak time only, which it does, both switches light up and if I switch off the onpeak one, the heating stops even tho the offpeak is still lit (testing this at off peak hours ofc). Is this correct ? does this not use much more electricity? I was monitoring this and Im sure it goes against the "night" hours, but my worry is that it uses much more power than it should.

Thank you for your advice

Tom
  • How do you heat your rooms?
  • It would appear that there is no output tail from the timeswitch.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Heya,


    same way as the tank - via the honeywell controller.

    the whole electricity in the house is a bit insane to me. 70+ spotlights bulbs all over the place. at least they can be lowered intensity but still. during covid we had not much choice as we couldnt personally visit and inspect the house to the detail. its not bad as we dont need them lit almost nowhere at any time. 


  • Typiod:

    It would appear that there is no output tail from the timeswitch.


    Whats the thick grey in the middle? most T/S outputs are on the right ,but this looks like a Sangamo and i think they were slightly different


  • Blencathra:
    Typiod:

    It would appear that there is no output tail from the timeswitch.


    Whats the thick grey in the middle? most T/S outputs are on the right ,but this looks like a Sangamo and i think they were slightly different




    Not any of the many hundreds of Sangamo timeswitches that I have fitted over the years. The 25mm in the middle will be the nuetral.


  • Thank you for the pictures they do indeed help.


    You have 2 immersion heaters, one at the top for when you pnly need half a tank. and one at the bottom for the whole cylinder.

    you may be able to work out by touching the silver cloured caps if both or just one is operating, after about 15mins.


    The metering, oh boy. To be sure it would be good to see a bit more at the top of the pic, to verify the connections into that black box at the top (the 'henley block')  and  I assume there is a consumer unit near by with lots of fuses or breakers but here is what I think I see.

    You only have one supply to the rest of the building, not two cables one for Off peak one for day rate - this makes things easier.

    Shiny new meter (the white bit) and time switch (clock - the black thing ) is state of of the ark.


    The clock uses the little thin wire between it and the meter to tell the meter which of the two counters it has is the one to be  used right now. (the thin wire will be at a voltage near live when it is one rate, and near neutral when it is the other.)

    (and when the meter is read, there are two numbers one is the running total for day units and the other for night units )

    So once the time switch has gone clunk everything in the flat is charged as  cheap rate, until it goes clunk again.


    And where is the heating controller, and how do we ensure that  it's times match those of the E7 metering clock ?

  • I would assume the immersion heaters don't need a time clock, the bottom heater is presumably connected to the E7 supply and just comes on at night and should be left turned on at all times as it gives you a tankful of hot water heated on the lower priced E7 tariff, the top one is presumably connected to the 24/7 supply and should only be turned on if you run out of hot water as it costs twice as much to run, therefore you only get half a tank of hot water for the same cost as a tankful using the bottom heater. So leave the top heater turned off unless you run out of hot water and need a boost.


    It could be controlled better using a simple push button timer on the top immersion to turn it on for a set time, for example like this so it doesn't get left turned on and as I said the bottom heater probably doesn't need a timer at all.


    I cannot imagine what the ST6400c is doing, unless someone has made up a homespun control unit using relays or it is severely overloaded it cannot be controlling the immersion heaters.


    Andy B.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Hi, 


    the st6400c controls everything - hot water and heating. theres no other way to switch either of those on to start the heating process. no other switches or anything. if i dont change the controller to "run programme" and move one of the sliders to once or cont. it wont work.


    additionally, if the onpeak switch isnt on, it wont work, no matter the time of the day. same as if i use the honeywell controller to auto trigger the heating in early morning. it needs the onpeak ON.


    as far as im aware. the onpeak switch shouldnt be used unless as you said i need to do the heating during the day which i never do. so why is it necessary to be on for the offpeak heating to run is a mystery and reason ive raised this. i believe it worked well when ive moved in and im not sure whether this is caused by the supplier switch or something else has gone wrong as i really dont see the reason why it would make any difference. especially in regards to the controller and switches. 


    i do have solar panels too, thought the rest of the boxes are only related to them. although again, no idea how they help me save energy as i think the heater  takes about 0.01kwh every 2 seconds
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    56080114639c3c336e10b2bbfe5e23b5-original-d6bb856e-ec7a-4f3f-9709-dcde5bc86bab.jpg
  • How do you explain the other tails, looks like L/N/switched neutral in 4mm and L in Lout in 16 or 25mm

    Typiod:
    Blencathra:
    Typiod:

    It would appear that there is no output tail from the timeswitch.


    Whats the thick grey in the middle? most T/S outputs are on the right ,but this looks like a Sangamo and i think they were slightly different




    Not any of the many hundreds of Sangamo timeswitches that I have fitted over the years. The 25mm in the middle will be the nuetral.