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Maximum sustained current perrmitted from 13 amp plug ?

This sounds an overly simplistic question, and the obvious answer is of course 13 amps. There is a clue in the name you know.


However in the case of a simple resistive load, the current will increase at a higher supply voltage. So at what voltage is the current measured for approval purposes ?

At 230 volts, the nominal or declared voltage ?

At 240 volts, the average voltage actually supplied most of the time in most places ?

Or at 253 volts, the maximum permitted. Or even at 256 volts the maximum achieved in an outbuilding with a bit of voltage rise due to grid tied PV on the roof.


The question has arisen due to a number of brand new "fast boiling" domestic electric kettles of reputable make failing a third party  PAT test due to "excessive current"


I repeated the test with my PAT tester and achieved a similar result, FAIL  in the premises in which they are to be used, but "pass" if tested elsewhere.

Tests with a variac and calibrated ammeter showed that a cold kettle on a 250 volt supply uses nearly 14 amps. just under 13 amps at 230 volts, both figures declining a little as the water starts to heat.

Had I done the original testing, I would have been inclined to use a little common sense and discretion and to pass an appliance that uses less than 10% overcurrent for a few minutes.

I would not pass an appliance such as a space heater that used even a slight overcurrent for hours at a time.


Wondered what others think.


And whilst we are on the subject, what about large portable air conditioners ? Available to hire fitted with 13 amp plugs, they appear to be a constant wattage load and use nearly 15 amps if the supply voltage is very low, and almost exactly 13 amps at 240 volts.
  • Why was the current drawn being measured?
  • Why were brand new kettles being PAT tested?
  • BS 1363 Section 1 Scope: "The plugs and socket-outlets are suitable for the connection of portable appliances, sound-vision equipment, luminaires, etc., in a.c. circuits only, operating at voltages not exceeding 250 V at 50 Hz."


    Section 7.6 covers markings, which give the rating as 13 A and 250 V. Have a look on the underside of a plug!


    Section 16 Temperature rise says: "The tests shall be carried out at rated voltage."


    With an allowance of 4 hours to go from 20 deg C to 70 deg C at 14 A, I don't think that a short overload will do any harm.


  • Sparkingchip:

    Why was the current drawn being measured?


    Because some automatic PAT testers do this as part of the automatic test sequence, more than 13 amps is a fail. Measured at whatever the mains voltage happens to be at the time of the test.

    So an appliance can fail one day with the mains at 250 volts, but pass the next day when the mains voltage is 225 volts.


     


  • Sparkingchip:

    Why were brand new kettles being PAT tested?


    Because that is the policy of the customer, and IMHO actually a sensible policy. Several failures have been found in brand new items.


  • Several failures have been found in brand new items.

    I'd agree with that - in fact in the days when I did a little portable appliance testing the only failures I ever detected during testing were down to manufacturing errors (mainly L-N reversal in moulded leads). There was some damage that occurred in-service, but that was always detected by visual before it got as far as a test meter.

       - Andy.
  • I presume they are rated at 3kW.


    I have two PAT testers, one mains which will do a leakage test with the appliance under load and one which is battery operated which won’t and has a substitute leakage test.


    So it would also depend on which tester I choose to use and which test I choose to run. The testing regime that reveals this “fail” goes above and beyond what is required for a kettle and in this particular situation is being influenced by external factors.


    I cannot imagine I would have run a test to measure the current drawn by a kettle in the first place and would not be raising any concerns.


     Andy B
  • I thought it would not be a bad idea to turn my PAT testers on, not having done so since March, so I thought I would try the test on our kettle.


    Bit of an issue,  the kettle needs to be cold, however I had been asleep so it was. The kettle is rated at 2520-3000 watts, the voltage is hovering around 245 volt.


    It is not a test I would normally run for a kettle. Maybe a bit of over zealous testing raising unnecessary concerns?

    b2dd220c6160622f56ee3930160918df-original-20200628_195246.jpg
  • That was the current drawn,  the leakage is 0.22 mA.


  • Good, or I'd have been suggesting you should be checking for an N-E reversal at the plug, a mistake that RCDs have almost eliminated.

    Actually I have a feeling that the leakage to earth figures are also better on modern kit, maybe another effect of RCDs and returns from irate customer is that manufacturers are a bit more careful with the moisture control and sealing of mineral insulated elements in kettles, cookers etc..

    On the OP, given that the flex on most kettles is clearly only rated for intermittent operation, I imagine we can extend the same latitude to the plug, though how much I'm not sure - if it says 13.5A well all is OK, but if it was nearer 15 probably not, I can see the concern.

    Somewhere I have a photo of a real fast kettle we used on field trials where inclement weather and poor shelter meant the normal arrangement took far too long, basically an ordinary domestic model, but wired between 2 phases on a genset to get 400V instead of 230. Very fast but no issues with the 13A fuse or the plug during the time it took to boil. It lasted the duration of the trials and was very popular.

    I'm not recommending that of course, and it hinges on the cold weather, but it does suggest that there is scope for allowing a higher 'short duration' rating.  The corollary is that a 13A plug with a long duration load, like an immersion heater, especially in a place that is already warm and badly ventilated, like an airing cupboard,  can suffer from overheating with a load that is less than 13A, so for  a long duration load, the situation is very different. A similar long overload situation may welll apply to the higher power 13A car  chargers, for which improved 13A sockets and plugs are supposed to exist, presumably with more metal and less plastic, though I am not seeing much evidence of them in use.