EICR Codes help for new Landlord.

There are a number of odd things here, suggesting the chap filling it out may not be the most experienced at this inspection lark, however even if half of it is a bit off, buried  in the details there are indicators the gist is right and this installation is getting a bit past it.

Roughly how old is the installation, or do you have pictures of the sockets flagged as overheated or the wiring in the airing cupboard?

Can you get a 10kA rated BS3036 fuse?

looks like it has already been rewired looking at the cable sizes.  ?

Oh deary me!


3.3 How could the absence of a label possibly be C2?


4.18 I assume that this is a TN installation so RCD is for additional and not fault protection.


5.13 This is domestic, not industrial.


Max permitted Zs column isn't right. Max Zs for a 30 A BS 3036 fuse is 1.04 Ω (Table 41.2). Where have the R1+R2 figures come from in respect of the socket circuits when end to end tests appear to have been omitted? Could it be Zs - Ze? Insulation resistance is low for PVC cables and why test at 200 V?

Hi all. I hope this makes it more clear.

I was expecting a bit more flack to be fair .  :)  There is also a massive difference to late 70's early 80s wiring than 60s. Although the standard of installation for a lot of the 60's stuff was excellent. The work that went into the wooden boxes and much of it installed in a form of metal conduit or tube..



Gary

If the cables are rubber and / or has failed insulation it should say so on the report.


It would be interesting to read the entire report and see what the insulation test results are recorded as.

Yes Gary, that is the one. But it is not run by Letting Agents......yet.   :)


edited for Freudian slip [is there a code for that?]

All is not lost.


With the very strong caveat that I can only go by the description that has been given, most problems are fixable. I have attached my observations.
OCR_EICR.pdf


I don't know what all the "exposed cables" are, but if there is a bit too much copper showing behind sockets, it can be remedied and a bit of green and yellow sleeving added at the same time. It is tedious and fiddly. If there is copper showing in the hatch, and if it is accessible, that should be C1. Feel free to post a photo!


You need to make all the C2s go away. Some are easy fixes. For some a range of opinion would include C3 - e.g. the bathroom fan.


For me the biggest problem is the lack of RCD protection and no CPC (earth wire) in the lighting circuits. A new consumer unit is probably highly desirable, but that then I personally would have some misgivings about re-installing the old circuits into it. I would be particularly reluctant if the back boxes, etc. are in a poor state.


A complete re-wire may have come as something of a shock, but may well be justified. For now, there may be scope for limiting remedial work to a new CU and the bonding, etc. but if the cables are not PVC, then I fear that a complete re-wire will be necessary.


In terms of the paperwork, the NAPIT software may be easy to use, but the risk with these systems is that they seem to substitute for thinking.