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Lights Supplied by 30 Amp Ring Final. B.S. 3036 Fuse.

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HellOOOoooo All,


I came across a strange one today. I went to change a faulty touch dimmer switch for an ordinary light switch. I discovered that the two lights controlled by the switch did not originate at the lighting circuit, but from a 30 Amp wire fused ring final. The supply was connected to an old metal double socket box below the light switch, in an added conservatory, with a blank plate over it. I can not add a fused connection unit as the box is a double socket box. The blank plate is covered by a small easily removed panel convector heater. I was considering installing an inline fuse holder in the double socket box for the lighting circuit. The lamps are low energy types so overloading is very unlikely, but faults may occur.


Thoughts please.


Z.
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    I detect cross purposes. It is very handy to be able to cut off the power to the fan and keep the lights on, either to allow it to be cleaned, or as happens in our house at night when folk only want to go for a wee without the fan whirring away at 48dBi plus and waking the household for no good reason. (city dwellers used to traffic may not worry about this so much)


    The fusing is something else, and in many cases is probably is not needed at all.

    If it has to be  I'd rather there was a single fuse before the steady live and switched live split, rather than two afterwards, as it leads to confusion if just one fuse blows or is removed.

    I do not think there is a greater shock risk however than say a ceiling rose.  Folk taking electrical stuff to bits should look after themselves to the same level as they would unscrewing a socket or  light switch.

    In most designs I have seen the switched live is just a trigger, and high impedance, so does not draw any current worth mentioning at all, all the motor power is drawn from the steady live.


    Mike.

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  • 0
    I detect cross purposes. It is very handy to be able to cut off the power to the fan and keep the lights on, either to allow it to be cleaned, or as happens in our house at night when folk only want to go for a wee without the fan whirring away at 48dBi plus and waking the household for no good reason. (city dwellers used to traffic may not worry about this so much)


    The fusing is something else, and in many cases is probably is not needed at all.

    If it has to be  I'd rather there was a single fuse before the steady live and switched live split, rather than two afterwards, as it leads to confusion if just one fuse blows or is removed.

    I do not think there is a greater shock risk however than say a ceiling rose.  Folk taking electrical stuff to bits should look after themselves to the same level as they would unscrewing a socket or  light switch.

    In most designs I have seen the switched live is just a trigger, and high impedance, so does not draw any current worth mentioning at all, all the motor power is drawn from the steady live.


    Mike.

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