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63amp connectors

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hi I need to join two cables I’d like to do it under the floor so maintenance free would’ve best but I could do it in a conduit terminal box on the outside wall. What connectors would people recommend
  • 0
    Not enough info - what type/size of cable? How many cores?

    What does Under floor mean? Buried in concrete, or earth or inside and under floor boards?
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Ok so 10mm t+e and a 10mm bonding connection two 3 core 10mm swa under the floor boards so MF may be better
  • 0
    Bare copper through- crimped butt connectors shrouded with heat shrink sleeving inside a 6" x 3" metal box. SWA armour earthed to twin and earth cpc along with 3rd core of SWA. SWA gland to be fitted to armoured cable and large stuffing gland cable entry for twin and earth. Danger label on box lid.

    That is the way I would do it.
  • 0
    whjohnson:

    Bare copper through- crimped butt connectors shrouded with heat shrink sleeving inside a 6" x 3" metal box. SWA armour earthed to twin and earth cpc along with 3rd core of SWA. SWA gland to be fitted to armoured cable and large stuffing gland cable entry for twin and earth. Danger label on box lid.

    That is the way I would do it.


    Thats the way I did it for an outdoor sauna


  • 0
    If it will get wet, the same sort of crimps could be used in a resin filled joint,  the 'clamshells' will fit the SWA well, but will need a grommet or similar at the T and E end of things to keep the resin in while it sets.

    If you had wanted a screw joint I'd be looking at line taps.

    Mike.
  • 0
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WKSH525W.html
  • 0
    MF is challenging. Screw terminals, even in a jell filled box, probably aren't going to suffice for that. Even crimps in an adaptable box still means the connection to the armour isn't strictly speaking MF - as both the armour-gland and gland-box connections are basically still a threaded screw/nut arrangement. (But might not be an issue in practice if the armour isn't being relied upon as a protective conductor and the gland at the other end is accessible.)


    So if it really can't be accessible, I'd probably also go for a resin encapsulated one (e.g. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SWJK2.html) - I would think that a few turns of tape around T&E where it enters the shell should suffice to stop the resin leaking out until it sets. Even then you might need a little extra ingenuity to interconnect the amour, 10mm² core, 4mm² c.p.c. from the T&E and 10mm² bond (might be easier to connect the T&E's c.p.c to the armour and the 3rd core to the 10mm² G/Y and join at the far end).


    Or if it can be accessible, an adaptable box (again agreeing with Mike) with line taps (e.g. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Line_Taps/index.html#Line_Taps)


      - Andy.
  • 0
    Presuming dry indoor conditions, then I would terminate the SWA In the usual way with a gland into a metal adaptable box. Short green/yellow fly lead from the gland. Joint phase, neutral, and earth with heavy duty through crimps and insulate with two layers of heat shrink.


    Note that to crimp joint larger conductors like this, you will need a heavy duty ratchet action crimp tool, NOT a cheapo "car boot sale" £5 crimper intended only for smaller conductors. (and of marginal reliability even for light duty use)


    I have been known to solder such joints, and insulate with self amalgamating tape, within a steel box. Soldering seems frowned on these days, but AFAIK is still permitted.


    If it might get wet, then a resin cast joint, these are available as complete kits.
  • 0
    broadgage:

    Presuming dry indoor conditions, then I would terminate the SWA In the usual way with a gland into a metal adaptable box. Short green/yellow fly lead from the gland. Joint phase, neutral, and earth with heavy duty through crimps and insulate with two layers of heat shrink.


    Note that to crimp joint larger conductors like this, you will need a heavy duty ratchet action crimp tool, NOT a cheapo "car boot sale" £5 crimper intended only for smaller conductors. (and of marginal reliability even for light duty use)


    I have been known to solder such joints, and insulate with self amalgamating tape, within a steel box. Soldering seems frowned on these days, but AFAIK is still permitted.


    If it might get wet, then a resin cast joint, these are available as complete kits.


    Seconded on the soldering. I have just replaced a 200 Amp three phase switched fuse with soldered lugs, initially installed in the early 60s. The lugs and connections were electrically and mechanically as good as new. They were retained and reused on the new fused switch.


    Z.


  • 0
    I used one of these to connect a bore hole pump, not sure if bigger sizes are available

    https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-joints/7133863/

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