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Oven & hob on 13amp fused spur

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
I’ve come across an electric oven and gas hob on a cooker circuit, the cooker switch feeds a 13a fused spur which powers both the Oven & hob, hard wired into a 32amp junction box.
the oven is rated at 13 amps but the hob 3 amps Is this acceptable as the hob is protected by a 13 amp fuse?

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  • 0
    davezawadi (David Stone):

    I will now set the cat amongst the pigeons.


    You are doing an EICR, is anyone going to code any of the suggestions above?

    Let's see...


    This sounds like a C&G exam. ?


    At the beginning, I would ask the householder if there were any concerns. Next I would have a look and smell - I assume that I shall find nothing.


    Then I would have a look behind the plate of the cooker switch - not possible to do a sample! On the above information, I wouldn't expect to find anything amiss. Then I'd have a look behind the plate of the FCU. IR testing might be limited if there is a neon. I'd check Zs at the FCU. And that's about it. I would not remove the cooking appliances.


    So my only concern might be over-filled load terminals on the FCU. That's when it gets interesting! I wouldn't be entirely happy with say only two threads engaged, but if the cable passes the tug test, so be it. If the cable turned out to be loose then we have a problem. Do I attempt to put it back? I think that I would want to speak to the householder at this stage. If (a 4 mm²) cable cannot be secured, then I think C2. If it can be, then no code. (Which I think is the point that Dave was making.


    Was I over-thinking the question? ?


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  • 0
    davezawadi (David Stone):

    I will now set the cat amongst the pigeons.


    You are doing an EICR, is anyone going to code any of the suggestions above?

    Let's see...


    This sounds like a C&G exam. ?


    At the beginning, I would ask the householder if there were any concerns. Next I would have a look and smell - I assume that I shall find nothing.


    Then I would have a look behind the plate of the cooker switch - not possible to do a sample! On the above information, I wouldn't expect to find anything amiss. Then I'd have a look behind the plate of the FCU. IR testing might be limited if there is a neon. I'd check Zs at the FCU. And that's about it. I would not remove the cooking appliances.


    So my only concern might be over-filled load terminals on the FCU. That's when it gets interesting! I wouldn't be entirely happy with say only two threads engaged, but if the cable passes the tug test, so be it. If the cable turned out to be loose then we have a problem. Do I attempt to put it back? I think that I would want to speak to the householder at this stage. If (a 4 mm²) cable cannot be secured, then I think C2. If it can be, then no code. (Which I think is the point that Dave was making.


    Was I over-thinking the question? ?


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