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Oven & hob on 13amp fused spur

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
I’ve come across an electric oven and gas hob on a cooker circuit, the cooker switch feeds a 13a fused spur which powers both the Oven & hob, hard wired into a 32amp junction box.
the oven is rated at 13 amps but the hob 3 amps Is this acceptable as the hob is protected by a 13 amp fuse?

  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    I doubt if the gas hob uses much electricity! Just there to provide an ignition spark I suspect.


    Regards


    BOD
  • 0
    Sounds messy, and check with the hob manufacturer's instructions.


    I doubt there is a real safety issue however - just about all consumer appliances these days will be designed the same for sale right across Europe - and 3A fuses are unknown outside of the UK/Ireland (and a couple of small ex-Empire areas) - so practically everything that could be plugged into a socket is expected to function safely on a 16A or even 20A OPD.


       - Andy.
  • 0
    Change the 32 amp JB into a DSO, 3amp plug, to the hob and a 13 amp plug to the cooker.


    regards...
  • 0
    AJJewsbury:

    Sounds messy, and check with the hob manufacturer's instructions.


    I doubt there is a real safety issue however - just about all consumer appliances these days will be designed the same for sale right across Europe - and 3A fuses are unknown outside of the UK/Ireland (and a couple of small ex-Empire areas) - so practically everything that could be plugged into a socket is expected to function safely on a 16A or even 20A OPD.


       - Andy.


    Hello Andy...


    I have had to read this several times... I don't think he means there's a '3 amp' fuse ~ rather that the hob is rated at '3 amps.' 


    regards...


  • 0
    I don't think he means there's a '3 amp' fuse ~ rather that the hob is rated at '3 amps.'

    I took the OP to mean that both the over and hob were fed by a single common 13A fuse - hence the perceived issue was the lack of 3A fuse protection for the hob.


    I'm with Bod - I very much doubt that a gas hob will draw 3A (what would a gas hob do with 700 Watts of electricity?) It'll just be for the gas ignition which'll draw the thermal equivalent of half of next to nothing.


       - Andy.
  • 0
    A 3 Amp hob won`t cook much will it Tom?
  • 0
    It will be fine, the uncertainty in the rating if the 13A fuse will be more than the average load of the gas - 4 sparks 3 times a day and perhaps a clock.

    The cable to the hob ought to be large enough to not fail during the blowing if the 13A fuse, and that is the only issue that may be a problem.

    M.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    mapj1:

    It will be fine, the uncertainty in the rating if the 13A fuse will be more than the average load of the gas - 4 sparks 3 times a day and perhaps a clock.

    The cable to the hob ought to be large enough to not fail during the blowing if the 13A fuse, and that is the only issue that may be a problem.

    M.


    Yes, that was my issue. the cable supplying the hob is 0.75mm2 but protected by a 13a fuse


    both the oven & hob are protected by the same fuse (fused spur)


    Sorry, the 3 amp is what the hob manufacturer recommends for similar hobs (hob uses 6w for ignition)


    it does seem a strange way to install but I would guess the oven / hob has been replaced over the years


  • 0

    Yes, that was my issue. the cable supplying the hob is 0.75mm2 but protected by a 13a fuse

     





    As will likely be the lead for your kettle.
  • 0
    A short length of 0,75mm will be fine protected by a 13A fuse, or indeed a 16A breaker, so long as the load at the end of it is not sensibly going to be more than a few amps, and the credible failure mechanisms are either dead short or total open circuit.

    If it was feeding a socket,  that could not be guaranteed, as someone may plug in more than the  hob. However, hard wired like this I think the most likely faults are it stops working one day, or the cable gets pinched or melted by the oven, and the fault is a dead short. Both of those are safe outcomes.

    As others have noted a lot of short duration 13A appliances, such as kettles, toasters etc have a surprisingly thin lead anyway, and come to no harm - 0.75mm can carry 13A for some time, and against a dead short, the 13A fuse blows before the wire gets too hot. We could try the Adiabatic Formula on this if we felt the urge. I don't intend to as I've had an odd  beer this evening, and  that is when I post maths with errors, which is bad.

    Mike

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