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Earth Bonding Gas & Water Pipes

AncientMariner
Assuming the copper water pipe (above the stop-cock at end of MDPE pipe) is close to the gas pipe, is it acceptable/permissible for the earth bonding conductor to be a single 10 mm² green/yellow from the consumer unit to go to say the water 351 earth clamp, looped around the screw and then to the gas 351?  This without cutting the cable, so that it is one continuous length. Or if not looped around the crew, for a bare section to be opened up 3 strands and 4 strands and the screw fitted between?
Thanks.
Clive

  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Far too rough attempting to wind 10mm2 conductors round BS951 bonding clamp connection lugg.


    As rough as using a 25 mm2 cable lug on an A to D, possibly an A to E one Legh?


    Regards


    BAD
  • 0
    In defence of the Tenby clamp, surely there are plenty of terminals with a similar arrangement. Contactors spring to mind just now.


    So do you (thinking in general terms including say, 2.5 mm² singles):


    (1) put on a ferrule and, therefore, use only one side of the clamp; or

    (2) leave the strands naked and wrap around 180°?
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    (1) put on a ferrule and, therefore, use only one side of the clamp; or

    (2) leave the strands naked and wrap around 180°?


    I'm a ferrule man now! That aside, all the contactors I've seen have a very good "tilting" clamp arrangement just for this one sided application.

    Most of the contactor screws I've found are captive so this would be very difficult to achieve. Those you do manage to take out decide to lose themselves................


    Regards


    BOD
  • 0
    perspicacious:
    Far too rough attempting to wind 10mm2 conductors round BS951 bonding clamp connection lugg.


    As rough as using a 25 mm2 cable lug on an A to D, possibly an A to E one Legh?


    Regards


    BAD


    Lol... 2 * 10mm2 muli-core singles stripped back into 25mm2 lug and crimped with a suitable crimper, not a lump hammer and chisel, then taped up using Grn/Y or a piece of amalgating tape works well. Winding the cores round a 6.0mm2 screw can be ripped out with a little encouragement.

    Legh.

    edit: multi-core = multi stranded


  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    a suitable crimper, not a lump hammer and chisel,


    Anderson dieless crimper is the American way of crimping where the tool crimps to 6 tons and stops as opposed to the method we use of fixed dimension dies and hope that the crimp tube wall thickness is compatible with the dies we're using. I use it for 12 V applications off road vehicles where it's handy to take 25 mm2 to the back of the vehicle and have a piece of 6 mm2 in the same tube terminal for a feed to mini fuse rack.


    As to hammer and chisel, best results that look almost professional are obtained with a blunt Rawlplug jumper and lump hammer..... Apparently.............


    Regards


    BOD
  • 0
    perspicacious:

    Most of the contactor screws I've found are captive so this would be very difficult to achieve. Those you do manage to take out decide to lose themselves................


    I know exactly what you mean.


    This is where a slightly magnetic screwdriver is useful. Or have a wee magnet on the stem.


    Amusing thread on escaping screws, etc. here


  • 0
    Surely if the termination is tight that is the important issue. As with all BS's its all in the interpretation of the end user


    "I don't think so Clive. Reading BS951 (albeit the 1999 copy). 5.2 suggests that the termination shall be capable of being possible to loop in and out." Does this just mean the design of a clamp must accept loop in and out like a continuous run with no cut. Relating to the design of the clamp rather than how its used?

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