Dave Thomas:
You could run them straight up the outside wall and drill straight though to the board. You shouldn't install them in a cavity anyway, Use SWA, just terminate it properly in a separate enclosure if necessary, with standard tails into the board for ease, but there's usually 25/32mm knockouts in the board anyway
What Dave, on a nice Norfolk flint cottage? The customer's wife would go ballistic. The original tails are already in the cavity so not easy to replace.
Z.
davezawadi (David Stone):
I really don't see why you are worrying Zoom, at 100A the tails on a hot day might reach 80C after a few hours, but then you wouldn't be using the heating. On a cold day, it is very unlikely they will reach anything like 70C. You have evidence that the tails are in good condition, and the install is as before. Is it less safe than previously, no? Flint walls need the chasing machine zoom, and quite possibly a set of new diamond disks as well. Don't go there! I suppose you could fit a new external 25mm SWA for strict adherence to the regs, but I would watch out for the customer, she wouldn't like the snake up the wall and has a handbag with a brick in it ready to go!
Yep, that is what I thought. Flints are like tool steel, very hard and brittle and they are large and embedded into the outside walls and cemented in with hardly any gaps between them, so no way through. At least with the tails in the wall cavity they are cool and more than 50mm away from any wall surface so protected from damage. I renewed the last section of tails with 25mm2 from the Henley block to the new consumer unit, slightly repositioned for easier access, to help future sparks in case of upgrades. Modern tails are very hard to bend and we need strong bionic hands. The old tails were lovely bendable softer copper.
Z.
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