1930s Wiring.

Any way, today I went to install  nice new earth rod and clamp, plus a new R.C.D. and to look at the permanently ON kitchen light. The reason for the latter was found to be in an old brown junction box where the rubber insulation had perished and two conductors were shorting together. Offending items disconnected subject to rewiring next week. Very horrible.


 I was trying to imagine the electrician that first installed the stuff as I removed some slotted steel half inch wood screws holding accessories. It was like being in a living museum.


Z.

Zoomup:

Nice brown circular M.E.M. bakelite tumbler light switches.

Covers removeable without the use of a tool?

Jaymack

The earlier described way of wiring a two way lighting circuit, is not "allowed" in the USA but is regrettably common. In New York it might be called "A California 3 way" and IN California it might be known as "A redneck 3 way" or in any urban area the system might be called "farm 3 way"

"American 2 way switching" is a mildly rude term applied by UK electricians who discover the system used over here. Controlling the same lamp from two positions is known as 3 way switching in America.


Not to be confused with "3 way bulbs" a type of filament lamp with two different  wattage filaments, in order that three different lighting levels may be selected by use of the smaller filament, the larger filament, or both together.

The desired light output was usually selected by a 4 position rotary switch built into the lamp holder, this limited use to table lamps, floor standard lamps and the like within easy reach.

The special lamp holders were available built into ceiling mounted lights, with a wall mounted switch.

Used to be popular in America and are still widely used, with both the original twin filament style or low energy equivalents available.

Also used in the UK but never a mass market item, 230 volt 3 way lamps are no longer available AFAIK.


Common wattages were 40/60/100 watt or 60/100160 watt, with a special 3 contact screw base. Or 100/150/250 watt with a special 3 contact large screw base.

There also existed a version with two filaments of very different wattages, such as 15 watt and 200 watts for night lighting in hospitals etc. These only gave two usefully different lighting levels, the difference 200 watts and 215 watts being insignificant.

BOTH lamp terminals are live when the lamp is off.

And what's worse is that they used ES rather than BC lampholders - so traditionally one of the terminals was the easily accessible outer "ring" contact and so too the cap of lamp itself could be live when changing it until it was fully unscrewed.

  - Andy.

Seems they were easy enough to put up  im guessing those men had done it all before since they seemed to know exactly.what to do. Ours was between 2 farmers fields but beyond that I don't know of the history of why it was there. I've never heard of the American lighting wiring system sounds down right dangerouse  I 5hink it would be lethal on a 240 or 220 volt supply but probably just about acceptable on 110 or 127 volts. Bearing in mind how technically advanced the yanks are there electrics seem really bad  shame really

I remember as a boy Nissen huts being used for fruit packing on fruit farms in Kent in the 50s.


Two things to note here:


1. The high level post for the overhead electrical supply in the static image.


2. The officer getting in the way of construction in the cine film clip.

https://nissens.co.uk/


Z.

In the post war housing shortage in the UK and overseas, there was a move to encourage the use of Nissen huts as housing, they were cheap, effectively free if left over from the war, durable, fire resistant, and easy to dismantle and re-assemble.


They never proved popular with the residents being considered "a hut and not a house"


If regularly painted or otherwise treated against rust they last almost forever.