Jointed Main Bonding Cable.

Not a problem, but the joint should be enclosed, with strain relief on the legs, not just a connector block on show.

The easiest way to make it look good is to crimp it, and put heat shrink over to make it look half decent. And on that note, I've finally bought a battery powered heat gun today. £70 inc. 1x 3aH battery. Game changer, I don't know why I didn't get one sooner.

Would soldering be an option? Something like this.

www.youtube.com/watch

The cable was run in trunking.

Z.

No - we were taught that any joint in anything (not just cable) should be at least as strong as the original material. If you pass that test then what is the problem? You might or might not need to insulate or identify or support it

No, as you well know, Zoomy!

This feels a bit like the exam question about whether you can have a main bonding cable to a water pipe, and then another piece to the gas pipe; or whether they have to be separate; or whether you split the cable around the screw of the first pipe.

If you couldn't have joins in cables, we would all have our own all the way back to the power station.

A customer had to renew a run of about 16 metres of 10.0mm2 bonding cable as his sparks said that it had a join and had to be replaced.

Chris I have had a very hard working week and my brain is exhausted so I rely upon others kindly spotting things that I may have missed, even though I believe that I know the answers.

Z.

Ask for the reg it breaks - I expect the person failing it will be gone for a long time. Then when they have to admit there is not one, ask for the money back for  money wasted due to incorrect advice.

as others have said it is perfectly OK to joint, so long as it is mechanically and electrically robust, Anyone who does not know this should not be inspecting.

Mike

A good quality inline bare copper butt connector crimped and covered in heatshrink and all your troubles are over Zoom - I've done it loads of times.