Manual generator transfer switch - make recommendations?

A whole house changeover switch with only a 4 KVA generator might not be the best option. Nothing would prevent someone turning on a high loading appliance and tripping or breaking the generator.

I would prefer a changeover switch that operates only on the lighting circuits and a single 16 amp radial power circuit, this to supply a limited number of priority loads such as fridge, freezer, TV internet router, laptop, central heating controls, cellphone charger, cordless phone base unit, and maybe a kettle, or a boiling ring, or microwave oven but only of these at a time.

Good point - but it's OK for our use case. It's a "distress" installation and I want to do it with as little disruption and as little cost as possible.

The generator start and switchover will be manual so part of the process will be to turn off the kettle, coffee machine, cooker, washing machine and dishwasher - then only use one of those (cooker single ring) with due caution. If I can hang a CT clamp onto a tail somewhere, I might be able to rig up a remote radio based ammeter display in the kitchen so people know how the load is.

4kVA will be enough to keep the lights on and run one appliance carefully as noted above. This is to get us through any rolling blackouts this winter[1] and the odd storm like we had earlier this year where we lost power for 48 hours.

Now: If we move to Devon as might be our plan, and we end up somewhere rural: then I'll be looking to put in an auto transfer switch, maybe upgrade to a 6kVA auto start capable genny and add contactors to the non lighting circuits plus CTs so I can pop a microcontroller on to manage automatic load shedding. That would be awesome. But it's just not worth spending that money here as we may be gone in a couple of years.


But thanks for suggesting...

[1] With 3 more nukes decommissioned in the last 2 years and wind averaging 2GW for a straight 7 days Mar 21-28 this year, whilst the media are good are scaremongering, I sense it it quite likely we're (in this semi rural area) going to be seeing power cuts. We get 6 hour ones at least once a year anyway.

To keep things simple and inexpensive I would just run an extension lead into the house and have a 13 Amp socket or two. Some generators will not like appliances with high a starting current such as motors. I would keep the house wiring and generator circuits separate. Ensure that the generator is not delivering fumes into the house.

Z.

If despite the above, you are determined that a changeover is the war forward, then any reputable make should be fine. Choose a physicaly large one as smaller versions may not have much internal space for wiring. As water is the enemy of all things electrical, get a splash proof switch and install it within a weather resistant box, such as are used for external electricity meters. Put the 32 amp appliance inlet in the box also.

It would be preferable in my view to have your electrician select the switch.

Funny you should suggest that :) That's where I started, sort of... I though: Well, I could run a genny circuit (installed wiring) drops to near the fridge, freezer, internet router, boiler as in independent circuit.

For some reason I revisited the idea of a transfer switch and thought: sod it - it's going to be less messing about, people don't have to change plugs over everywhere and I'll give the whole job to an electrician as the potential unreliability of the supplier's  earth still needs addressing (I have a fat copper gas pipe that runs at accessible height around the house outside - so that's a touch risk, so seemed like a rod would be wise, but the regulatory aspects of putting rods on a TN-C-S are beyond my competence.

Yes - it was a bit of a full circle, but I think it's enough to expect the missus to go start a generator and throw a switch if I'm not there - running cords in and changing plugs over may go down less well

Thanks for that - especially the check for size. My electrician has done a couple of these types of installs before but he seems happy for me to source this less common part (guessing his usual supplier may not carry them as standard). But I will certainly send him a link to the part and I'll make sure I can return it if anything turns out wrong with it.

Good idea on the 32A inlet in the box. I was looking at those and the male fixed devices don't seem to be available with any sort of flap so they're going to be prone to getting full of bugs and crud if unprotected. Great idea - I'll make sure that happens.

Quote: "(I have a fat copper gas pipe that runs at accessible height around the house outside - so that's a touch risk, so seemed like a rod would be wise, but the regulatory aspects of putting rods on a TN-C-S are beyond my competence."

Don't get us started on that subject; about extraneous-conductive-parts. It may or not be an extraneous-conductive-part and need main bonding. Your sparks will know (hopefully). 22kOhms and all that.

I would let your Sparks get the changeover switch personally.

Reg. 551.6.1 is interesting.

Rather than fiddling about when the lights go out, I would install several emergency lights (luminaires) of 3 hours duration.

Benefits.

1. They automatically turn on on mains failure.

2. They are safe.

3. The automatically recharge their batteries upon the mains returning.

4. They are idiot-proof.

5, They can just be plugged into a socket using a 13 Amp plug and positioned where needed.

6. They have a funky L.E.D. light showing that they are happy and being charged.

Z.

Emergency luminaries don't run the boiler

Also, my last power cut was 48 hours and 6 hours is not uncommon. We're on the end of a ropey bit of 33kV here and if that trips and the auto reclosers give up, that's usually a sign of much darkness.

Hi folks. With the greatest of respect:

I'm very clear on the system design. I've chosen to have a 4kVA genny backup because it will meet the required conditions of running lights, boiler, internet and one appliance at a time.

I've chosen to go for the transfer switch approach because it will be the simplest system to operate for other household users, beyond the much more expensive option of an automatic transfer switch and automatic load shedding of hi load circuits with option to manually re-engage.

The latter would be how I might do it at my next house if it's in a more rural area and power cuts even more likely. But for this, I just want a sweet spot of safe/easy/inexpensive.

All I was after were any thoughts in 100A TS makes and models 

I know where I am with consumer accessories - there are makes I regard well (Crabtree, Schneider, Hager)

But I have no idea how JFK, Lewden and Eris are.

Also - yes, I would let the sparky have a veto too. But it's my money and I want to know it's a solid unit and not a piece of junk.

Tim Watts said:

Also - yes, I would let the sparky have a veto too. But it's my money and I want to know it's a solid unit and not a piece of junk.

All I can say is that you get what you pay for. Of those six makes, I think that I would go for Hager.