Manual generator transfer switch - make recommendations?

If despite the above, you are determined that a changeover is the war forward, then any reputable make should be fine. Choose a physicaly large one as smaller versions may not have much internal space for wiring. As water is the enemy of all things electrical, get a splash proof switch and install it within a weather resistant box, such as are used for external electricity meters. Put the 32 amp appliance inlet in the box also.

It would be preferable in my view to have your electrician select the switch.

Thanks for that - especially the check for size. My electrician has done a couple of these types of installs before but he seems happy for me to source this less common part (guessing his usual supplier may not carry them as standard). But I will certainly send him a link to the part and I'll make sure I can return it if anything turns out wrong with it.

Good idea on the 32A inlet in the box. I was looking at those and the male fixed devices don't seem to be available with any sort of flap so they're going to be prone to getting full of bugs and crud if unprotected. Great idea - I'll make sure that happens.

Quote: "(I have a fat copper gas pipe that runs at accessible height around the house outside - so that's a touch risk, so seemed like a rod would be wise, but the regulatory aspects of putting rods on a TN-C-S are beyond my competence."

Don't get us started on that subject; about extraneous-conductive-parts. It may or not be an extraneous-conductive-part and need main bonding. Your sparks will know (hopefully). 22kOhms and all that.

I would let your Sparks get the changeover switch personally.

Reg. 551.6.1 is interesting.

Rather than fiddling about when the lights go out, I would install several emergency lights (luminaires) of 3 hours duration.

Benefits.

1. They automatically turn on on mains failure.

2. They are safe.

3. The automatically recharge their batteries upon the mains returning.

4. They are idiot-proof.

5, They can just be plugged into a socket using a 13 Amp plug and positioned where needed.

6. They have a funky L.E.D. light showing that they are happy and being charged.

Z.

Quote: "(I have a fat copper gas pipe that runs at accessible height around the house outside - so that's a touch risk, so seemed like a rod would be wise, but the regulatory aspects of putting rods on a TN-C-S are beyond my competence."

Don't get us started on that subject; about extraneous-conductive-parts. It may or not be an extraneous-conductive-part and need main bonding. Your sparks will know (hopefully). 22kOhms and all that.

I would let your Sparks get the changeover switch personally.

Reg. 551.6.1 is interesting.

Rather than fiddling about when the lights go out, I would install several emergency lights (luminaires) of 3 hours duration.

Benefits.

1. They automatically turn on on mains failure.

2. They are safe.

3. The automatically recharge their batteries upon the mains returning.

4. They are idiot-proof.

5, They can just be plugged into a socket using a 13 Amp plug and positioned where needed.

6. They have a funky L.E.D. light showing that they are happy and being charged.

Z.

Emergency luminaries don't run the boiler

Also, my last power cut was 48 hours and 6 hours is not uncommon. We're on the end of a ropey bit of 33kV here and if that trips and the auto reclosers give up, that's usually a sign of much darkness.

Perhaps the emergency lights do not run the boiler but they can provide instant light thus allowing you to overcome the power cut difficulties and adapt.

There is a better way to supply the boiler than a generator.

Z.

What is the maximum running time of your generator on one full tank of fuel?

Z.