I have actually used a couple of these, and I really cannot open them without a small screwdriver to release the plastic catches, so unless unlike me you have long nails that are cut to the profile of a small screwdriver that aspect is likely to be OK.

It does mean that the enclosure depends rather more on the quality of the plastic moulding than a design with a screw or two would, I guess if you were really  worried a small cable tie could be  added.

In terms of temperature, I note that the datasheet says it is polypropylene, which  is temporarily softened but not damaged by temperatures up to and slightly  over 100C with a rather indeterminate melting point and is usually injection moulded between 200 and 300C .  Pure polypropylene material data is here   Note also the glass transition - the change from flexible to catastrophically brittle - at  about -18C - it may be possible to use these boxes at -30C, but I think they would be happier being handled and installed at higher temps - allows the lid to flex rather than shatter if it needs a bit of a push.

There are higher temp versions that have talcum powder blended in, and the tensile strength can be improved if it is reinforced with glass fibre, but as both of these additives make it much harder on the moulding equipment, and looking, these boxes are cloudy but clear, I suspect this is more or less pure PP.

The fact it passes a glow wire test at 750C should give you some reassurance as well  - I'm sure it melts, but at least it does not ignite !

Having said that I have used them, in terms of satisfaction, while I was able to do what I needed, and when finished it all looked OK, being slightly floppy it did not have the reassuring weight of a traditional junction box. If you only have 2 or 3 wires there are better things to connect them into. Because of this I'd only want to use them where it was the best option -it is certainly one up on a box of loose bits of choc block however, and there is plenty of room,

Mike.

I have actually used a couple of these, and I really cannot open them without a small screwdriver to release the plastic catches, so unless unlike me you have long nails that are cut to the profile of a small screwdriver that aspect is likely to be OK.

It does mean that the enclosure depends rather more on the quality of the plastic moulding than a design with a screw or two would, I guess if you were really  worried a small cable tie could be  added.

In terms of temperature, I note that the datasheet says it is polypropylene, which  is temporarily softened but not damaged by temperatures up to and slightly  over 100C with a rather indeterminate melting point and is usually injection moulded between 200 and 300C .  Pure polypropylene material data is here   Note also the glass transition - the change from flexible to catastrophically brittle - at  about -18C - it may be possible to use these boxes at -30C, but I think they would be happier being handled and installed at higher temps - allows the lid to flex rather than shatter if it needs a bit of a push.

There are higher temp versions that have talcum powder blended in, and the tensile strength can be improved if it is reinforced with glass fibre, but as both of these additives make it much harder on the moulding equipment, and looking, these boxes are cloudy but clear, I suspect this is more or less pure PP.

The fact it passes a glow wire test at 750C should give you some reassurance as well  - I'm sure it melts, but at least it does not ignite !

Having said that I have used them, in terms of satisfaction, while I was able to do what I needed, and when finished it all looked OK, being slightly floppy it did not have the reassuring weight of a traditional junction box. If you only have 2 or 3 wires there are better things to connect them into. Because of this I'd only want to use them where it was the best option -it is certainly one up on a box of loose bits of choc block however, and there is plenty of room,

Mike.