Blocked greasing point

I have one pin on my tractor front end loader that won't take grease.

I have checked the nipple and that the hole through the pin is clear. I've tried using a grease hammer with white spirit and I've tried heating it up with a gas torch. All to no avail.

It's a through pin secured by a through roll pin which is of course itself stuck so currently I can't drive the main pin out.

It doesn't have a hard life so leaving it could be an option but that doesn't sit well with my inner mechanic! So, all I can think of is to get really radical with the gas torch, what, to the point of cherry red? As I said, it's working ok atm so I don't want to *** it up!

I would welcome any other suggestions that have worked for you in the past.

Thanks G.

  • I presume its not the sort where the grease niple unscrews - do you have a pic?

    Therre may be a thing a bit like a bearing shell with a hole that has to line up with the grease point that has rotated. Or I may have the wrong thing completely in mind, and the grease nipple really is on the pin, and not the frame it rotates inside.


  • Is this a pin with a grease nipple at one end,  a through boring and then a cross hole to reach the bearing surface? You have checked that the through boring is open so the cross hole appears to be blocked. Do you know if the pin is running in a bush of some sort? 

    I have had some success by putting the whole joint in a plastic bag full of Xylene (Hammarite solvent) for a day or so but I don't know if that is possible in your case.

  • Thanks for your replies. It's exactly as you described Roger but I don't think that there's a bush. I can't move the pin or get it out without removing the wretched roll pin, is there a tried and tested method to do this? YouTube's keen on blow lamps, what do you think?

  • For removing roll pins a correctly sized punch is important as well as being able to get a good square hit.

  • A parallel punch set or cut the point off an appropriately sized nail with a hacksaw to use it as a punch.

  • OK, not quite what I visualized, sorry, Seconded on the punch for the pin removal. plus a wedge up or put something massive on the other side so the energy of the strike is not dissipated in waggling the structure, To encourage the pin to move relative to the hole, as well as hitting the pin, the hole needs to be unable to move out of the way - easy to say, may be hard to arrange,

    Punch needs to be shaped so as not to spread the pin - any sort of mushroom head forming will make it really hard to shift.

    Warmth and paraffin may held a bit, but is not a cure-all.

    I have seen cunning slide hammer style devices used to do this sort of thing, and even bearing removals, on tanks and other big metal but here I assume a normal club hammer and the right size piece of steel are more suited.