Installation of a generator for a house.

broadgage:

link to a report "living without electricity"

V. interesting report.


So how should I improve my household resilience? Wired in 'phone - have always had that. Wood-burner (with pizza oven ? ) tick! Coal fires - tick! Though no coal after next year. ? Blankets - we all have them so can keep warm. Mobile charger - could do that in the car if push comes to shove. Candles - yes got some of them. (Interestingly, local Vodafone mast is powered by a jenny.)


However, in a new build, I like the idea of a few red sockets. Must discuss with step-daughter whilst there is still a chance!

Chris Pearson:

broadgage:

link to a report "living without electricity"

V. interesting report.


So how should I improve my household resilience? Wired in 'phone - have always had that. Wood-burner (with pizza oven ? ) tick! Coal fires - tick! Though no coal after next year. ? Blankets - we all have them so can keep warm. Mobile charger - could do that in the car if push comes to shove. Candles - yes got some of them. (Interestingly, local Vodafone mast is powered by a jenny.)


However, in a new build, I like the idea of a few red sockets. Must discuss with step-daughter whilst there is still a chance!

Only "housecoal" is being banned, you will still be able to purchase Anthracite or patent smokeless fuels. Anthracite is excellent in a multi fuel stove but needs a decent induced draft to burn well so not good for an open fire. Patent smokeless fuel is fine for an open fire.


Candles are rather a last resort, but still worth stocking for "just in case" 

Blankets are useful, preferably two for each person IN ADDITION to any used normally on beds. Any blanket is better than not having one, but wool is best IMHO, warmer, fire retardant, and comfortable to sleep under.

In a new build it is well worth adding red sockets on dedicated circuits, to facilitate future use of a generator or UPS, even if these sockets are ordinary mains initialy.

Sparkingchip:

How long can you run a central heating system for off a car battery and small inverter?

Central heating systems vary a lot in electricity consumption. 150 watts might be a reasonable average. 

150 watts output from an inverter will be about 15 amps input at 12 volts.

A typical modern car battery will supply 15 amps for about an hour (they are optimised for engine starting, not storage capacity and are often only about 30 to 35 ampere hours. Half that if discharged quickly)

A deep cycle leisure battery of say 100 ampere hours will supply 15 amps for about 5 hours (the full capacity is only achieved at slower discharge rates)

About a dozen deep discharges will kill a cheap car battery, a single deep discharge may finish off a car battery already in marginal condition.

A deep cycle battery should survive at least 100 deep discharges, or many hundreds of shallow cycles.


Ensure that your central heating is supplied via a plug and socket to facilitate easy connection to an inverter.

You will need a "true sine wave" inverter to run the sophisticated electronics in a modern boiler. Avoid "modified sine wave" inverters they the polite term for square wave.

Cheap inverters are probably rated in chinese watts, buy one with a nominal capacity of twice the actual power needed.


It would be best to measure the actual electrical loading of your central heating rather than to rely on my estimate.

broadgage:

Is there any need to innvolve the DNO ? I would have thought not as a changeover switch is to be used, with no question of paralell running, backfeeding, or need for synchronising. 

 

The addition of the changeover switch modifies the DNO connections between the meter and the Consumer Unit. Also the DNO fuses need pulling.

UKPN advice is to fill in the form for the modification of their network plus a G99 form (even though there is no paralleling planned - it is "A switched alternative supply")

The DNO have a right to witness that the interlocks preventing paralleling are effective - In practice, they (UKPN) don't exercise it for small installations.

 

PG:

broadgage:

Is there any need to innvolve the DNO ? I would have thought not as a changeover switch is to be used, with no question of paralell running, backfeeding, or need for synchronising. 

 

The addition of the changeover switch modifies the DNO connections between the meter and the Consumer Unit. Also the DNO fuses need pulling.

UKPN advice is to fill in the form for the modification of their network plus a G99 form (even though there is no paralleling planned - it is "A switched alternative supply")

The DNO have a right to witness that the interlocks preventing paralleling are effective - In practice, they (UKPN) don't exercise it for small installations.



No pulling of service fuses, nor modification of  DNO connections between meter and consumer unit would be needed if the work was done in the way that I suggest.


1) Install the new changeover switch. Take the mains input into this switch from a 30/32 amp circuit in the existing consumer unit. Connect the generator input  to the generator.


2) Install a new 6 or 8 way consumer unit, connected to the output of the changeover switch.


3) Transfer the existing lighting circuits from the old consumer unit to the new consumer unit.

     Transfer from the old consumer unit to the new consumer unit any dedicated circuits for central heating or other low power high priority loads.

   Install a new 10 amp circuit from new consumer unit to a single red socket in the kitchen.

   Install 2 or 3 new 4 amp circuits to twin red sockets as needed, and as earlier described.



     

broadgage:

PG:

broadgage:

Is there any need to innvolve the DNO ? I would have thought not as a changeover switch is to be used, with no question of paralell running, backfeeding, or need for synchronising. 

 

The addition of the changeover switch modifies the DNO connections between the meter and the Consumer Unit. Also the DNO fuses need pulling.

UKPN advice is to fill in the form for the modification of their network plus a G99 form (even though there is no paralleling planned - it is "A switched alternative supply")

The DNO have a right to witness that the interlocks preventing paralleling are effective - In practice, they (UKPN) don't exercise it for small installations.



No pulling of service fuses, nor modification of  DNO connections between meter and consumer unit would be needed if the work was done in the way that I suggest.


1) Install the new changeover switch. Take the mains input into this switch from a 30/32 amp circuit in the existing consumer unit. Connect the generator input  to the generator.


2) Install a new 6 or 8 way consumer unit, connected to the output of the changeover switch.


3) Transfer the existing lighting circuits from the old consumer unit to the new consumer unit.

     Transfer from the old consumer unit to the new consumer unit any dedicated circuits for central heating or other low power high priority loads.

   Install a new 10 amp circuit from new consumer unit to a single red socket in the kitchen.

   Install 2 or 3 new 4 amp circuits to twin red sockets as needed, and as earlier described.



     

 

Thank you; I can’t see anything technically incorrect with your proposal.
I would point out that I only have to reconnect the meter tails to, selectively, supply most of the house from the generator whilst the proposed alternative involves considerable rework and reconnection, supplying a reduced amount of load on an increasingly loaded new sub- Consumer Unit.
With a pre-installed changeover switch, Generator RCD and Generator Connection Unit, the meter tail changeover takes about 60 minutes with, say, another 60 minutes paperwork with the DNO. 
Footnote;
Possibly talking to the converted - Anyone connecting replacement Consumer Unit tails would be well advised to use the tails with the more flexible (19 strand) conductors.