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Induction Hob again

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
I hope that you don’t find me impudent but I am having difficulty finding an electrician to explain why they will not install the induction hob and double oven that we are looking to fit in our new kitchen.
We have chosen a hob 7.4 kW and oven 6.3 kW. The cooker radial circuit has 6mm2 cable with 40A MCB. The run is some 12 m. The house was built (converted) in 2002 and inspected last year (DPN18C). We cannot run an extra cable because the CU is separated from the kitchen without a horizontal floor or roof space and presumably runs the existing cable through the stud walls.
The kitchen fitting company electrician has visited but won’t carry out the work unless we sign an indemnity as it would invalidate our insurance and the appliance guarantee. He suggested instead two plug-in ovens which we could add to the ring main. I have contacted four other local electricians but they all use 13.7 kW means 59.7 A which means 10 mm cable and ignore my request to consider diversity.
Should I give up and accept the two oven solution or perhaps a gas oven?
Do you know of a way of finding someone who understands diversity?
Am I simply wrong?

  • Playing a bit of Devil's advocate, if you rely upon diversity, why do you need such powerful appliances?


    To my mind, one hob + one oven = one cooker.


    Paragraph 311 of BS 7671 permits diversity to be taken into consideration. Table A1 of the On-Site Guide allows 10 A of the rated current + 30% of the reminder = 10 + 15 = 25 A.


    If the cable runs in an insulated stud wall (insulation may be there for sound attenuation) the current carrying capacity of 6 mm² T&E is 35 A provided that the cable is in contact with the inner wall surface.


    One of the problems here is that a large proportion (the majority?) of the population have no idea about cookery. The big range on Christmas Day is the usual example. In engineering terms, if you turned everything on at the same time, it would briefly pull the full rated current, but as the thermostats click in and out, diversity comes into play. In culinary terms, you do not cook your vegetables when the turkey (yuk!) goes in, and you do not put your peas on at the same time as your potatoes.


    Don't even think of putting ovens on the ring.


    IMHO, there is no problem with the installation as described.




  • Am I simply wrong?

    I don't think so either. 30% after the first 10A (plus 5A if there's a socket in the cooker control unit) is a well known rule going back generations. Provided the manufacturers instructions don't say otherwise I too reckon a 25A or higher common circuit should be fine.

       - Andy.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Thank you for such a prompt reply.
    Thank you for the thought about insulation in the stud wall - I hadn't considered that. Thank you also  for your opinion that I am on the right lines as far circuit suitability is concerned.
    The hob that my wife and I have chosen is a Bosch PXV851FC1E: not for its power but for it's versatility. We've moved to our dream house and would like a dream kitchen.
    I'm happy with the concept of diversity and can do the calculations. I find plenty of folk happy with the on this forum. I don't know how to find someone who agrees in the real world. I know that it would be improper to ask for recommendations here but some kind of clue as to where to look for something would be helpful.

    And I am also looking for contrary advice if I'm wrong!


  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQduU8RkjD8

    is also helpful in thinking about this
  • If your appliances really did together consume 60A for an appreciable period of time, the worst that should happen is that after about half an hour the circuit breaker will trip, providing you with a useful reminder that using every ring and the oven simultaneously to bring large saucepans of cold water to the boil to fill up a broken hot tub perhaps wasn't the best idea! All that will happen to the cable during this time is that it will get quite warm.
  • biglouie:
    I don't know how to find someone who agrees in the real world. I know that it would be improper to ask for recommendations here but some kind of clue as to where to look for something would be helpful.


    Which part of the country are you in?


  • The problem with kichen fitter electricians is they tend not be be experienced in the real world but go by the book.

    I had the same problem was you when we had our kitchen refitted. The sparks was dead set on rewiring the cooker circuit. I simply asked him to explain how a stand alone cooker with a double oven and ceramic hob worked well with the existing circuit but suddenly a similar unit needed a new cable. 'The book says so and I always do it that way' canme the answer - bit like the swich for the cooker suddenly got moved to the back of the cupboard at high level  -' thats what people want came the excuse.

    It got better as I found the earthing tail from the metal conduit not even connected in the light switch. Thats the standard of NICEIC domestic installers for you!!


    Ask hime to justify the new cable.
  • A chunkier cable might be nice, but it sounds like there is no real risk, unless the 6mm cable has some other issue, like it changes colour from one end to the other - implying some unknown hidden joint, or the wall is full of insulation or worse some nasty plastic that reacts with PVC.

    handy cable rating tables

    (table-4d2a is a good starting point to see the dramatic effects of insulated walls versus free air..)

    So long as the breaker is such that  it protects the cable, nothing terrible will happen - as others have noted, you will fire the trip first, which may be a real pain in the wotsits in mid soufflé or whatever, but not actually dangerous is it.

    Do check the wall filling though as a 40A breaker would allow a 6mm cable in an insulated wall to be over-run quite a bit, which is not so good.

    Thinking about your sparks' advice, you may wonder if he has considered your company fuse rating  ? It may say  "100A" on the holder next to the meter, but a 60A or an 80A fuse in a 100A holder is quite common, and on a housing estate then there may be 20 or more similar houses on each 400A fuse at the substation end (or more like 50 per phase on a larger transformer) so if you took the sparks' advice at face value, you'd probably have to disable the shower and the sockets while cooking and liaise with the neighbours to wash on alternate days. In reality, such measures are not needed and do not happen.


    There are alternate hacks sometimes seen when it gets more desperate, like cables that pop outside and run along the wall for a bit, or multiple parallel runs, but in this case it seems a bit OTT.

    M.

  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Half way between Keighley and Skipton?
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Thank you BPD. I had watched that before I saw the kitchen fitter electrician. I had even sent him the same link before his visit. To no avail. The other challenge that I have come across is that induction hobs are in some way different and that diversity shouldn't be considered. Although I can see that there is power management in the hob circuitry it doesn't seem to make it more likely that prolonged high power would be called for in routine domestic cookery.