Riveting labels to 16 A outlet covers

After many years of using similar sockets on building sites I would trust adhesive more than rivets, I think the labels may be snagged snapping them or the rivet, bearing in mind the original label is on the only flat surface.

So I would stick the labels on with adhesive, then rivet them if they insist. Which will be fine until someone damages the complete cap or socket and wants to salvage the label to put on a replacement.

But that means the label will be stuck to the original label, unless the original label is actually removed and as you say partially obscuring it.

So can the original labels be peeled off and moved?

Gloss paint, a correctly prepared surface and an artist's steady hand is fine. If the installation is of a permanent kind, unlike a building site environment the painted identifiers will last for ages.

Z.

www.youtube.com/watch

The consultant will not accept adhesive labels - they have to be riveted (although we would likely stick them as well).  There are no other flat surfaces in the vicinity they could be moved to.

My question is are there are regulatory issues with doing this?

Sadly no matter what the skill of the signwriter, engraved and riveted Traffolyte labels are the only thing acceptable to the consultant.

Are there any regulatory issues with riveting said label to the cover plate, and partially obscuring the information (although arguably none of the important information)?

So, if the info has to be visible for inspection,  you need to re-create any key original label info you obscure on the new one- just the rating and EN probably.. Personally I would go for custom sticky vinyl labels actually - they can be very good from many on-line printers - I second the point about riveted add-on plates getting snagged on clothing etc and being a pain in practice  - I'm not sure how practical your consultant is ;-)

Otherwise if there are enough of them  to justify set-up costs, then one could get some replacement caps 3d printed in the same shape as the old but with whatever pattern they like on and fitted.- I presume the hinge pins can be driven ? Needs to be no more flammable than the original ..

Mike

Solution. Just duplicate the info from the original label to the new Traffolyte label, and add an i/d number for each socket.

Z.

jbrameld said:

So to my question: Is there anything from a regulation/compliance perspective that would prevent us from doing this?

I presume that means drilling through part of the socket itself (even if it's just the flip cover) - I'd hazard a guess that such a practice isn't covered by the product standard or manufacturer's instructions. I can imagine that the manufacturer might have all sorts of objections - from physical weakening of the flap (which on those sockets is also part of the plug latching mechanism) to compromising creepage & clearance distances (especially if metal rivets could be used or the plastic ones substituted with metal at a later date).

In short I'd formally ask the socket manufacturer if they support such a practice and would continue to honour all the usual guarantees and compliances, and when they say no, chuck it back to the consultant.

I don't think anyone in their right mind would drill and rivet into a plastic 13A socket faceplate - standards and compliance wise, I don't see there being much more wiggle room for a BS EN 60309 socket.

    - Andy.

well no, when you modify it you become the manufacturer and responsible for the modified parts - similar to the mixed MCBs in a CU argument, but more serious as here it is directly covering un-shuttered live parts- so if as per my previous you make a complete new lid, it has to be as good as the one it replaces - and I suggest a material modification to the existing one, like holes,  is much the same.

I'm rather assuming your consultant expects and is happy to sign off for the CE marking, being the design authority for the modification he is proposing? If not remind him he should be.
Mike.

PS I still think sticky labels ..

PPS Oddly I have drilled holes into a normal socket front, to attach some electronics to it, but I was happy to be the DA in that rather odd case, it being my design and all, but it was a good few years ago.

I agree with Andy, see what the manufacturer has to say. But those Walther ones have a rectangular panel just above the round bit 16A Connector - Robolights which looks like it might be a better place to put a label.