How large is the bathroom?  Over 2.5m from the edge of bath/shower than a environment applicable (IP rated and IK rated) socket COULD be used.  Personally I think sockets in the average UK bathroom is not a good idea given the average size.  (think about water and steam ingress)  Additionally this is a special location so I think of this as a place that you could be naked or wet or possibly both.  Next point is remember RCD potection.  Again personally I would like to see bath lights on its own RCBO and not with the lights for thw whole floor of the house.

However is Europe many countries allow a socket in the bathroom within splashing distance of the sink.

Again another personal option would be to cut off the plug and wire into an FCU (use ferules if fine stranded cable to make a sound electro-mechanical connection) with correct rated fuse and then possibly put an isolator switch on the OUTSIDE of the bathroom for that device.  This gives you a fuse to protect the unit/person in the bathroom and an accessible isolation point outside the bathroom.  

In the UK we would not normally  have a plug and socket in a bathroom. If the makers claim that the warranty is invalid because of fixed wiring, then they should not really be importing it to the UK. In a very large bathroom it may be OK if you can get 2,5m from the edge of the bathtub or shower tray, but generally a supply via a fused spur makes more sense.

Mike.

Being a simple sort of chap, I wondered why you would want to reflect infrared light in a bathroom, but I see that these things are heaters which have a polished surface that can be used as a looking glass.

I fear that a model which has been supplied with a BS1363 plug is intended for a bedroom, cloakroom, etc.

I would like to think the OP had checked the IP & IK rating of the mirror and it is AT LEAST a minimum of  (IPX4/IP44) personally I think the average UK bathroom needs a minimum of IP55.  Steam as well as water droplets and jets, again due to being a special location.  Also many people say IP stands for Ingress Protection but I am sure it is actually International Protection.  I think it is an AM2 qualification question. 

The self un-steaming mirrors only really make sense in a place where condensing water vapour is expected. I don't know about you but that is not my bedroom !! (probably getting too old for that sort of thing.)

The ones I have seen are low enough wattage to run from the lights and are a sticky patch with resistance wire embedded on the back of a normal mirror.

The problem is not damp on the electric mirror - it will be driven off as it warms up, but a wet socket may or may not be a concern,  Most of the EU seems to allow RCD protected sockets just  outside zone 2 these days, and in practice it is not as dangerous as it looks, there are not huge piles of dead bodies when I stay in hotels on the continent.

Perhaps the recessed nature of the shucko socket  helps, or perhaps we should lighten up a bit.

Mike.

mapj1 said:

The self un-steaming mirrors only really make sense in a place where condensing water vapour is expected. I don't know about you but that is not my bedroom !! (probably getting too old for that sort of thing.)

My impression was that these were more than self-un-steaming mirrors, i.e. room heaters.

I do not have a mirror in my office, nor in my workshops, but Mrs P has put them (or were screwed to the walls when we moved in) just about everywhere else. So a heater disguised as a mirror makes sense.

When I were a lad and central heating was a rarity, it was common to see infra-red (radiant) heaters in bathrooms - usually just below the ceiling and often connected using a plug & socket or FCU (and occasionally into the lighting circuit). I wonder if the mirror type could be effective as a room heater though - to remain safe as a mirror (without wire guards etc) it couldn't have a high surface temperature, and so the amount of heat it could provide would be very limited unless it was very large. Demist seems more likely, but then it's not really running on an infra-red principle. Some more data about the actual appliance in this case might be helpful.

   - Andy.

Hmm the sort I have seen on bathroom cabinets etc manage about 10 degrees rise above ambient on the glass surface, sort of blood warm to the touch, not at all hot.  And actually at least on the cheaper kind you can really see the stripes in the steam matching where the heating element is round the back. I installed a bathroom cabinet with these in a flat we rent out- it also has the most useless LED lights in the manner of a theatre dressing room mirror, which we ended up augmenting with a real light fitting above.

Unless a room is very well insulated or has a lot of glass area relative to its volume, I'd not expect room heating this way to be very successful.

It might be good to know a bit more info  from the original poster, but I think we have scared him off.
Mike

Still here and very much reading everyones ideas thoughts. This is the product i am talking about. Thanks for al the input

aha - then the instructions you have with it are these  or similar I  assume.

I note it tells you to get an electrician to install it if you are putting it into bathroom - this is a bit of a cop out. It should say to meet BS7671 remove the plug and to hard wire to a suitably fused circuit.

It is rather bigger than the sort  I have seen, but same idea.

Mike.