disturbed earth bonding

Dear Engineers

Apologies for lowering the standard of discussion here with my first and probably only question. I had some work done to my mains stopvalve recently. In the cause of this the plumber needed to remove and then reinstate the green and yellow cable. I now noticed that it is not very tightly fastened into the clamp - see photo, and easily wobbles. Also the warning label has disappeared.

My question is: It looks easy to fix and to get a new label. Happy to have a go myself. But is there more to it? Does it need testing, perhaps? In other words: is this for householder or for electrician to remedy.

Many thanks in advance if you can help.

Anna

  • DIY is in my view reasonable in this case.

    I would turn off the electricity supply at the main switch(es) whilst remaking the connection, just in case it is carrying significant leakage current.

  • Happy to have a go myself.

    There is no prohibition under Part P.

    But is there more to it? Does it need testing,

    Repairing an existing installation is not specifically covered by the normative requirements, although Appendix 6 provides guidance that "The Minor Electrical Installation Works Certificate is intended to be used for additions and alterations to an installation that do not extend to the provision of a new circuit."

    This of course could include repairs to protective bonding. Tests are of course covered by "continuity of protective conductors", so really the advice would be tests are required.

    Whether this is "for the householder" ... Part P does not require notification of the work, so of the person doing the work, and testing according to Part 6, is competent, and provides the appropriate certification, the legislation can be satisfied, and BS 7671 complied with.

    Care, of course, when working with main bonding (and perhaps hall protective earthing and bonding) - see Appendix D to Guidance Note 3 Inspection & Testing 9th Edition

  • Hi Anna

    If I was in your position I would call the plumber back and get him to fit it properly or tell him you will call an electrician out to do it and forward him the invoice. He has basically compromised the safety of your installation under certain fault conditions.  There is no immediate danger but there could be.  Earth clamps can be fiddly to fit properly if you haven't done them before so I would suggest you don't try and do it yourself.

    Gary

  • many thanks - probably electrician then, I don't have access to the documents you very helpfully list, not testing equipment.

  • In this case, the wire needs to be securely connected to the pipe, in a metal to metal sort of way ,and the whole thing should take about 15 minutes assuming there is access for a screwdriver, and leave time to put the kettle on. There is a bit of a knack to pulling the tape tight before doing up the locking screw, but at most allow 2 goes.

    I do not think it is beyond any handyman or woman to be competent to that level.

    I do not expect any domestic plumber would bother to electrically test it or to furnish any paperwork, and a DIY person doing neither is exactly the same position, legally, as the 'professional' and saves themselves the call out fee.

    I also suspect that quite a few sparks would not test either but would charge more to compensate for having brought the meter and left in the van....

    As per Broadgage, the main risk is if there is fault current flowing, and there probably isn't but just in case  there  is, then power off first.

    Mike

  • Part P (of The Building Regulations) says very little and nothing about any prohibition or notification.

  • thank you Gary!

  • Part P (of The Building Regulations) says very little and nothing about any prohibition or notification.

    That's 'cos it's covered in the over-arching notification requirements of the building regs - Reg 12(6A) I think.

    (6A) A person intending to carry out building work in relation to which Part P of Schedule 1 imposes a requirement is required to give a building notice or an application for building control approval with full plans where the work consists of—

    (a)the installation of a new circuit;

    (b)the replacement of a consumer unit; or

    (c)any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location.

      - Andy.

  • There is a bit of a knack to pulling the tape tight before doing up the locking screw, but at most allow 2 goes.

    +1 to that. Those clamps aren't great when re-used - the securing band is indented by the locking screw, so it's very difficult to get them just a little bit tighter once they've been fully tightened in the wrong position (or around a fractionally larger pipe). A fresh clamp make life so much easier - and at about £3.50 for a pack of 5 from your local DIY shed (e.g. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Dry-Condition-Earth-Clamps---Pack-of-5/p/220461) you can have a spare one or two to practice on (and you get the labels too!).  Likewise I'd chop off the distorted ends of the G/Y cable and re-bare a clean straight section to work with (twist the strands together then bend into a U shape to go around the terminal screw).

       - Andy.

  • Thank you Mike!